Friday, February 23, 2018

Ask The Expert

I have been in the Window Treatment Industry for 25 years. I’ve performed in home consulations, in store sales and installations. I have seen just about every type of treatment out there and installed it in just about every type of window opening. I created “ask the expert” for you. So put me to the test, post your question below, I enjoy helping. And by chance I don’t have an answer, maybe someone else here will.


361 Responses to “Ask The Expert”
  1. Kat says:

    I have a bow window with 5 windows that all open. This window faces East.The sun shines directly thru my blinds..I have vertical blinds on now that I want to take down. I was thinking about putting up a wood blind. Since the window is over 120 inches, I was trying to determine if I could put a blind on each window panel. There is nothing to mount each individual blind onto. Is it possible to hang a blind from the top part of the bow window? Also, if that is possible how exactly do I measure an account for the curvature of the window itself. If wood blinds are not an option..Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks so much for your time and input.


  2. admin says:

    Hi, Thanks for posting this question, I’m sure others have run into this senario as well. I think wood blinds are a good choice or a bow window. You can control the light and privacy. Yes, the brackets are designed so you can mount them at the top. I have included a diagram that I sketched out on how to measure and how to account for the curvature. Its very rough, so don’t laugh. If you order these, order them as inside mounts. Also, for the left end blind, order the valance with a left return only, and for the right end blind, order the valance with a right return only. This will give your end blinds a finished look at the top. Let me know how it goes and good luck. Fee free to ask me if you have any more questions or problems.

  3. Kat says:

    Thanks Bob…I went a visited a JcPenney today and the lady at the blind counter suggested I put on blind to cover 3 of the windows and one for each end. Wasn’t sure on how that would look or just to go with the 5 single blinds. I forgot to take into consideration the crank out to open the windows. What do you think?

  4. admin says:

    Crank handles are always an issue. Couple of things you can do. The handle itself comes off easily. You can just leave it off until you need it. Or change it out for the mickie mouse type. They don’t stick out as much and are available at most hardware stores. As far as the three blinds. Would this be straight across the entire opening in front of the bow? Don’t like that idea . My suggestion would be 5 treatments either wood or cellular. Or one cellular across the entire opening. But if you do one treatment you loose the look of the bow window.

  5. carol says:

    What can be done to prevent cords from vertical blinds getting into children’s hands or worse…? Are there safety kits to adapt such blinds?
    Thanks! Love your website!

  6. admin says:

    Hi Carol
    Good question. There is a free retrofit kit availible from the Window Covering Safety Council. Main thing is you want to eliminate free hanging cords. If your vertical came with a “P” clip (see photo below) use it to attach your draw cord and beaded chain to the wall.
    I also included a link below to a site called kidsafe that has child safety products for other types of blinds. They also carry an impressive line of child safety products. Didn’t realize they had a stove guard. Thats a good idea.



  7. Steve says:

    I have a vertical blind over my patio doors and they open in the middle. Is there anyway to change how they open? I would like to change them so that the open from right to left. Thanks

  8. admin says:

    Hi Steve
    Thanks for the question. Converting a spilt draw headrail to a one way draw is not recomemmended. It’s a complicated process that involves re-routing the draw cord through various components in the headrail. You might find an installer who would be willing to attempt it. But the charge might not justify trying to change it over. You could also purchase a replacment headrail for about $90. Or could pick up a brand new vertical blind for a standard patio door for about $90. Good Luck

    Vertical Blind for a patio door

  9. Justin says:

    Hi, thanks for answering questions! I bought some 2″ Bali Faux wood blinds to replace the even cheaper, skinny blinds that came with the house when I bought it. The skinny blinds are inside mount, and I’d prefer to have the 2″ blinds inside mount as well. I like the way inside mount looks better, plus the valence that came with the 2″ blinds has a stupid looking connector thing for connecting the front valence to the side valences to cover up the hardware. Anyways, I technically COULD fit the 2″ blinds “inside” the window. However, in order to have it flush so that it doesn’t stick out beyond the window molding, I’d have to basically mount the blinds farther back in the window frame. That would mean (1) the blinds would be mounted inside or overlapping the track for the bottom window, so that I couldn’t open up the bottom window all the way anymore; and (2) if the blinds were to be let straight down they would hit the top of the bottom window. Now, neither of these things are a real big deal to me. I don’t hardly ever open my windows (I mean I have AC, comon’). And when I pull down the blinds it’s not hard to pull them out a bit so that they don’t hit the top of the bottom window, and they look just fine in my opinion (I held them up and tested it).

    My question, though, is whether or not this is a “correct” or at least acceptable way to inside mount blinds. It’d be one thing if I were going to stay in this house forever, but I mean if/when I sell the house is it going to be something that an inspector looks at and says is improper installation?

    If it’s incorrect, I’d welcome any suggestions you might have. Thanks!

  10. Justin says:

    Oh and one more question if you don’t mind. I just found some comparable blinds that have a better valence, that might persuade me to outside mount the blinds if it’d be incorrect to inside mount them as described above. My wife seems to prefer to have them be the same width, or only very slightly wider, than if we were going to inside mount them. That is, so that the blinds don’t cover up the outer window molding. Is that acceptable to do? (I ask because a number of sites I’ve found suggest making them even wider (like 3″ on each side)). Thanks again!

  11. admin says:

    Hi Justin
    I have seen wood blinds mounted in this fashion a number of times. If you were to sell the home an inspector might point this out due to the fact the windows cannot open fully, at which time you just pull the brackets out and remount the so they stick out a little. Couple of options for inside mounts are, order smaller valance returns as indicated in this article in my article “step by step guide for valances on your 2 inch wood blinds” or you can also consider a mock inside mount which is mounted in the fashion in the attached pics …..mock im bracket placementmock im without valance
    mock im with valance
    Hope this helps.
    PS…you can hot glue the returns to the valance if you don’t like the clips they send.

  12. admin says:

    Hi Justin
    I would make them wider as well. 3 inches on each side seems a bit much foe wood blinds. I would go an inch on each side. I reason for the overlapp is two fold. First for privacy, if the blind is the same width as the window then the gap along the sides will allow for someone to see in from the outside easily. Second, nothing is perfectly square so if you make them the same width as the opening, when you lower the blinds the window opening will peek out from behind the blinds. So you always want a little overlap to hide any uneveness.

  13. Paula says:

    I love the look of silhouettes, but have a corner I am not sure they can work with. The maximum depth of the inside edge at the corner is 1 3/4″. Can this be made to work? Is there ANY window covering that can work in a corner that shallow? I also like cellular shades and solar shades, but prefer the silhouettes. Thank you!

  14. admin says:

    Hi Paula
    Thanks for your question. You can do silhouettes in a corner. Best way to do it is a method called a butt and bypass installation.Thats where one side is measured for the full width of the opening (called the bypass). The other shade is measured to butt up to it. If your interested in this application let me know so I can get you more specifiecs.

  15. Elena C says:

    dear Bob

    My shutters were installed yesterday ad all look lovely. These are interior shutters installed within window sill. Well, my disapointment comes from when opened, they swing out quickly. I have toopened them in order to open the windows. I expected some drift, but not such swinging. I am concerned that they will hit the wall on as they swing (this happened the first time since I was not expecting the swing).

    Can anything be done??
    I am very tempted to call the installation company to do something about it. What can I say?? They might think I am being too demanding. Sigh…

    Disapointed in Santa Cruz, California

  16. admin says:

    Hello Elena, thank you for your comment. This is one of the reasons I built this site. Things the manufactors don’t mention and you don’t find out until after the installation. What I find works in this situation is to score the pins so it creats friction. This is something you can do on your own or if you don’t feel comfortable call the installers back, a reputable firm will come back to fix this. What’s involved is to remove a pin from the hindge and with a pair of sheers score several slight line up and down the pin. Repeat this for all pins one at a time and this will create enought friction to slow the doors down and keep them from swinging out so fast.

  17. Julie Dirks says:

    Dear Bob

    I have some nice microsuede room darkening ready made panels in my bedroom. They have formerly been hung using a decorative rod and ring clip system, but I (and the DH) don’t like the untidy way they hang when open. I would like to add a fixed valence on a secondary rod, and attach the panels to a center open transverse rod. They are not pleated and would just hand flat when closed. Am I crazy? Attaching the bekram would not be hard for me becuase I sew.

    Any input?

  18. admin says:

    Hi Julie
    I don’t think you crazy. I think you should do whatever makes you happy. I take it that you want the gather to hang more evenly when the panels are open. I say go for it and let me know how it turns out….Good luck

  19. MaryAnne says:

    Your expertise is so helpful and now I need your advice. I am purchasing wood blinds but I don’t know if I should buy from or Their products are similar but payless is less expensive. Are you familiar with payless decor? Thanks!

  20. Darlene says:

    I purchased some pre made 2 inch faux wood blinds from J C Penney. The mounting hardware must be attached to/from the top or back, the blind attaches on the top of the bracket on a “hook” and the bottom snaps in. All of the installation information I have seen uses a different type bracket. The blinds weigh 10 lbs. each. Are you familiar with this type and do you feel it will hold up over time? Thank you in advance for your comments.

  21. admin says:

    Hi Darlene
    The bracket JCPenny uses is a hidden bracket. It allows for a cleaner look once installed. I’ve installed these before and never had any issues with not holding. Just make sure the blind is snaped in at the bottom and postion the brackets so they don’t fit over a bobber in the headrail. Your see several bobbers in the headrail depending on how wide your blind is. The bobbers rotate as you tilt your blind. The brackets, if postioned over the bobber may interfer with them rotating.

  22. admin says:

    Hi Maryanne
    I have ordered blinds for my house from and was very happy. Very good price, quality, and shipped quick. But what really impressed me was while on an installation there were issues with a valance, returns were wrong and valance was too narrow. Customer measured herself and ordered from I got on the phone with them and was impressed when they didn’t try to lay blame or give us a hassle. She recieved her correct valance with correct return sizes at no additional charges. I like working with companies like that. I am not famalier with payless, so I have no feedback.

  23. Anita says:

    I bought two sets of 66″ panel track blinds for my living room window which is 98″, under the understanding that you can reverse the draw on them. I want to be able to draw each set toward the center of the window. There are no instructions on how to reverse the draw and I can’t figure out the puzzle. Any ideas?

  24. admin says:

    Hi anitadewar
    Are these two sets going to butt together to appear as one blind? Who is the manufactor or where did you buy them? How many panels on each blind? Is the track white and do the panels attach with velcro? Do you have a draw cord or a wand for your control?

  25. Anita says:

    The blinds will but together to appear as one set. There are Whole Home bought at Sears. There are four panels per set. The track is white, the panels attach with velcro and they had a wand control.

  26. admin says:

    HI Anita
    I tried to find instructions online but could only find sales info. Sears says it can be installed either left or right draw, so you would think it would be clear on the instructions. It might be as simply as turning the headrail around. If that doesn’t work loosen and remove the end cap of the headrail from the side with the fixed carrier. Then remove all the carriers and turn them around and re-install the end cap. Let me know how it goes.

  27. Anita says:

    Hi Bob, As it turns out, their idea of reverse draw is simply move the panels to the right and attach the wand to the back panel. The problem with that is that in my case I am using two sets of blinds to cover one window. In order to get the two sides to close in the center with the front panels meeting we had to move the plastic stoppers on three of the carriers. They look good though. Thanks for the help, we couldn’t find anything on the internet either, that’s how I found you. So now you have bit of info that you can pass on if you ever get this problem posed again. Have a great day!

  28. Carol says:

    I need some advice on replacing roll up shades in my living room bay window and dining room double hung window. Bay window is large; 2-23″ width casement side windows and 70″ width center window which doesn’t open. My husband would like cordless cellulars but I am leary on two accounts: cleanability with my allergies and expense factor. Would mini blinds be a better solution for us? They are easier to keep clean and less expensive. I mentioned wood blinds but my husband doesn’t care for them. I dislike the present roller shades as they are so old fashioned and cold looking when down.

  29. admin says:

    Hi Carol
    Thanks for your question. The benifits of cordless cellular shades are they offer a clean look with no cords. They are easier to clean just wipe with a damp cloth or use the upholstry attachment of your vacuum. They don’t take up much room due to a smaller headrail an thin stack when drawn up. They are also safer for kids and pets since there are no cords to get tangled up in. The draw backs are they are more expensive. They also offer less light control since they are either up or down. Here’s a link to the best price I found for a cordless cellular shades.
    Mini blinds offer more light control by tilting the slats and are less expensive. The drawbacks are it’s a chopper look with all the cords and wands hanging in a bay window. They are harder and more time consuming to clean since each and every slat collects dust. But what might be a good compromise is a newer product on the market. It’s a cordless mini blind and it’s less than 1/2 the price of a cellular. Here’s a link “Cordless mini blinds“. Good luck

  30. MaryAnne says:

    It’s me, MaryAnne, again! I am about to order my wood blinds and I’m confused. My recess is exactly three inches. I have an old house and the window has an inside molding that isn’t flat all the way to the end of the recess although the brackets would still work I think. Won’t the bracket stick out a bit and won’t the valance look unfinished? Should I order a wider valance – and if so, how deep of a return would I order?? Maybe I’m overthinking this and the three inches would be fine.


  31. admin says:

    Hi MaryAnn
    Good to hear from you again. If you opening is 3 inches deep you will still need a little return on the valance. So make your valance about 1 inch wider then your blind and ask for 1/2 returns. But I got a feeling you won’t be able to set your bracket 3 inches in since you mentioned you have some type of molding inside your trim. If this is the case, then answer this question…your bracket will be 2 3/4 deep. If you set it back up to the inner molding, how much bracket will still be sticking out?

  32. Colleen says:

    Dear Bob the Blind Guy,
    I hope you’re in the mood for what I imagine is a “different” sort of question.

    I have a sliding patio door with a Hunter Douglas Vertiglide duette honeycomb-type shade. I don’t love the look of the shade, but it came with the house and it does a great job keeping the sun out in the afternoon. So, there are no issues with the performance of the shade – just the cosmetic look.

    I had the brilliant idea of putting some sheer curtain panels over the shade. I had hoped that the sheer panels could slide open and closed with the shade. So, upon closer inspection of the shade and its parts I couldn’t see an easy way to do what I wanted. I have though of safety pinning the sheer fabric panels to the top of the shade itself, but that seems rather “clunky”. My next thought was to purchase some replacement clips/carriers and attach the panels to those. This idea seemed good until I realized that I probably can’t just pop the new carriers in? Or can I? I don’t want to have to take anything apart. The safety pin solution doesn’t involve taking things apart and putting them back together.
    Any thoughts? I hope I’ve described this in such a way that you can even make sense of my question 🙂

  33. admin says:

    HI Colleen

    Your getting very creative here. I think your best bet is to get additional carriers insert them into the headrail and attach the fabric that way. I know thats more difficult but you can go to Hunter Douglas web sit and download and installation guide, it will show you whats involved. It would require removing one end and sliding everything out . I think if you attach it with pins that the extra weight will pull the vertiglide material out of its carriers.

  34. Colleen says:

    I was afraid you were going to say that. However, I do agree. Plus, the way you phrased it, “removing one end and sliding everything out”, doesn’t sound all that terrible.
    Thanks for your help.


    Hi Bob, great site. Is there a way to convert Hunter Douglas Top Down Brillance shades so they are Top Down/ Bottom Up shades by re stringing?
    The ones I ordered for the client need to be converted and it seems there might be a way to restring and rehand the head rail. I have a continuous loop pull, inside mounted. Much appreciation for any guidance you can give. Thank you, Patricia Scott

  36. admin says:

    Hi Patricia

    Thats a good question. If it already has the top down feature you think it wouldn’t be too hard to convert it to top down bottom up. Unfortunately I not familiar how to convert it on this product. I would suggest contacting the customer service dept.They sould be able to let you know if it can be done or not. Good luck

  37. Jules says:

    Hi Bob,

    I was wondering what the differences are between a metal headrail and a vinyl headrail on a blind. Can you tell me the pros and cons?

    Thank you.


  38. admin says:

    Hi Jules
    What type of treatment are you referring to, vertical blind, mini blind or other?

  39. Jules says:

    Hi Bob,

    I am thinking about a horizontal/venetian blind.

    Thank you.


  40. admin says:

    Thanks Jules
    Vinyl headrails on a venetian blind are not as rigid as metal. When drawing up and down there might be a little more flex in the headrail. Because of this they require one or more center supports.

  41. Jules says:

    Hi Bob,

    Thank you for the quick reply. I have heard people telling me that the metal headrail will rust so it’s better to go with a vinyl headrail. Is this true? I really appreciate your help!


  42. admin says:

    Hi Jules

    I cannot recall the last time I have seen a rusty headrail. Lots of dust bunnies but no rust.


  43. Janet says:

    Can I reverse the stack back direction on a Hunter Douglas luminette privacy sheer? If so, how?

  44. admin says:

    Hi Janet
    Good question, the answer is yes but you must be very ambitious to attempt it. I will send you an email with detailed instructions on how to switch the stack. Let me know how it turns out.

    Did you vote in BobTheBlindGuy’s latest poll ?

  45. Karen says:

    My grown son just built his first house and put up interior shutter blinds yesterday. It looks very nice, but his bi-fold blinds do not close flat on the bottom. He put the magnet in the middle on top and bottom, but one of the bottom bi-folds does not go flat. He realizes it is probably just an adjustment, but he doesn’t know which screws or what else to adjust?? (There were very little instructions with them.) Thanks.

  46. admin says:

    Hi Karen

    I need a little more info before I could help. Are the shutters inside or outside mounts? How many panels? Did he use screws to install them or a nail gun? You said it doesn’t lay flat at the bottom. Does it grab onto the magnet but just pull away?

  47. Karen says:

    Wow do you respond fast… thanks!
    I just called my son and they are inside mounts.
    He used screws to install them.
    Each window has 2 sets of bifolds so there would be four panels.
    The center grabs the magnets, but the middle of the 2 panels on each bifold does not stay flat. He tried a magnet, but it wouldn’t hold.


  48. admin says:

    Hi Karen

    Does he know what type of frame he ordered and what brand?

  49. karen says:

    we’re not sure what the frames are called but there are verticle strips, about one inch wide that go up each side; no top or bottom frame. The brand is allen + roth.

  50. admin says:

    Hi Karen

    I am not famaliar with this brand but they should be similiar to other shutthers. First I would put a level on the hang strips (vertical strips) and make sure there plum. If not loosen up the screws and adjust them so they are. If they still don’t grab then the bilold should have magnets attached to the top and bottom of each panel. They should have send you some type of metal “L” bracket to attach to your sill and on the inside top of the window opening. The magnets grab onto the “L” brackets to hold them closed. If the center panels aren’t grabbing then maybe the “L” brackets are too far away. Try moving the “L” brackets a little closer to the panels. Let me know how it goes.

  51. Pat says:

    Hi Bob,

    I live in and townhouse, and I have installed mini blinds on my down stairs windows, which have wood casings on them. I would like to install mini blinds upstairs,but there are no wood casings upstairs to screw them into. How do I go about installing mini blinds, or is this impossible without wood casings? There are no wood casings around the outside of the window opening either. I rent, and an outside mount would put bigger holes in the wall than is allowed, so this is out.

  52. admin says:

    Hi Pat

    No you do not need wood casing. You can mount right into your drywall. Just a little depth in your opening and at least 1 1/2 long screws. Take a look at this picture. It show a window opening with about 3 inches of depth. For a mini blind you only need about 3/4 inch depth. What brand of blind are you looking at ?

    Window opening without trim

  53. patty says:

    Hi Bob! We have replaced our kitchen windows and want to put up new window treatments. However, my husband does not want to lose the beautiful view we have which means he wants nothing on the window. How can we install a treatment that would allow us to maintain our view? Thanks. Patty

  54. admin says:

    Hi Patty

    Good question but before I could answer I need some more info from you.
    1) Are you considering inside or outside mounts?
    2) Is light control or privacy an issue?
    3) Any windows above a sink?
    4) Is there a patio door involved?
    5) If you did put up a treatment, what type do you have in mind?

  55. Pat says:

    Hi Bob,

    Thanks for your answer. In answer to your question, I think the blinds I have on the first floor are Bali. I have had them for a while, and have wanted to install blinds in the second floor bedrooms but wasn’t sure if this was possible. The blinds are inexpensive ones because I am on a very limited budget. The ones on the second floor do not have the side bracket that you showed in the picture when you answered my original question. They have a headed that has 2 or 3 spots where a header is screwed in. I am assuming,though, that 1 1/2 inch screws would also work there as well. Would I need to use wall anchors to make the screws more stable in the drywall?

  56. admin says:

    Hi Pat

    If you use 1 1/2 screws, then the screws will be long enough to reach through the drywall and into the wood framing behind the drywall. This is a much more secure installation then using anchors.

  57. Hey Bob,

    In my kitchen we have a lovely and quite large bay window. It looks out over our driveway and then our next door neighbors’ house and their kitchen window. Their window is rather small in comparison, and somewhat higher than ours. So our view into their kitchen is quite limited. Which is perfect, we don’t want to peep. The problem is, from their window, you can see pretty much our entire kitchen.

    We do have vertical blinds across the bay window (which are pretty old and will be needing replacement soon – I’ll write for advice on that another time), but I prefer the spacious feel of keeping the blinds open. Is there some kind of film or coating available for windows that would allow us to see out, but would prevent anyone outside from looking in?

    I know this isn’t a blind question, but I thought it still might be something you might be knowledgeable about.

    Any thoughts?



  58. Robert says:

    Hi Diana
    Thanks for stopping by. I am a not too familiar with window film so I contacted a supplier. They said the film is design to keep heat out and to block the UV rays of the sun. During the daylight hours you will get privacy but once it gets dark and you have the lights on in your house your neighbors will be able to tell what type pf cookies your baking. I had a customer recently with a similiar problem. Her bay overlooked her yard and neighbors driveway and front of house. She decided to go with a top down bottom up woven wood shades. If you take a look at this article ” What Everybody Ought To Know About Window treatments for a Bay Window” hers are the first set of windows but there are other suggestions and ideas as well. Good luck and let me know if you have any futher questions.

  59. Grete says:

    Hi Bob,

    We just replaced our windows, and I’m looking for window treatment ideas for the window in my kitchen and for the patio doors (french doors) which are on the same wall and overlook our back yard and garden.

    I’m thinking of a bamboo or woven wood shade, but I don’t want want a large amount of stacking for the patio doors. I would like to retain as much view as possible when the shades are open. The shades are needed for light control in the morning and for privacy at night. Thanks for any suggestions you can provide.


  60. Robert says:

    HI Grete

    I am assuming you want to go with a horizontal treatment that mounts onto your doors. If you go with a standard woven wood the drop (stack) would be about 12 inches. Mount it as high as possible on your door to minimize the drop or stack covering your glass. Another suggestion would be a cordless woven wood. The headrail is about 3 inches and the woven wood draws completly into it (headrail). So when drawn up it won’t cover any of your view. Here’s a link to take a look at it ” cordless woven woods“. Any further questions let me know.


  61. Grete says:


    Thanks for your reply on 2/12. I like your suggestion; however, I just found my husband replaced the french door with a sliding patio door. Would this still be a good option? Could we use just one shade for the patio door? Do you have any other suggestions? Again, we want the light control in the morning and privacy at night but want to retain as much of the view as possible when the shades are open.

    Thanks again. You have a terrific site.


  62. Kay says:

    I just put up curtains on an extension curtain rod in my living room. I have rings attached to the curtains and the curtains glide over the rod smoothly EXCEPT where the extension projects from the main bar. This “step” on the rod causes the rings to get jammed. What can I do to the rod to smooth out the difference in diameters so the rings glide along the entire bar?
    Thanks. Looking forward to your response. I enjoyed reading the questions,comments, and recommendations on your website.

  63. Joe says:


    I have a bathroom door leading out to our pool area. The size of the existing framed glass opening is 16″ x 64″. I tried ODL and they do not make a enclosed blind unit for that size. Can you recommend another company or solution? Please advise. Thank you, Joe.

  64. Robert says:

    Hi Kay

    Your missing a piece referred to as a “transition collar” it’s a round plastic piece that looks like a washer. It fits where the two rods joint together and allows the rings to glide smoothly. It usually comes with the rod. I would check with the place you purchased the rod from or a local hardware store for one.

    Good Luck

  65. Robert says:

    Hi Joe
    ODL is the only company that makes this blind. This is a neat product because it fits right over your glass. In your case where they don’t make a size for your opening. You can still go with the traditioal enclosed blind where your glass is replaced with one that has a blind in it. Another option is to mount a mini blind directly to your door and install hold down brackets to keep it from swinging around when using the door.


  66. Kay says:

    Aha! So that’s what I’m looking for! Thanks Bob! I’m off to the hardware store to buy a transition collar! Will let you know how that works!

  67. Lisa says:

    Box bay window dilemma!!! We have a box bay window in our master bedroom that faces on to the road. At the moment we have ugly vertical blinds covering the windows which we want to replace. The only good thing about these blinds is that the tracks are so close to the window that they sit inside the sill. I love the shape of the box bay window and do not want any coverings that will take up too much room, especially as I have a chest of drawers sitting in the alcove that lines up with the main wall perfectly at the moment. Can we get roman blinds that will work with this type of window? Are there other blinds that we can get that will fit into the sill area of the window? I found that your blog on this issue is the only one with a picture of our type of window and you seem to be the only person who understands how important the shape of the window is (I am sick of people just saying we should stick a rod over the front and leave it at that or that the only solution is to have very bulky curtains that will majorly encroach on the room!)I also do like to open up one side of the verticals that we have to let light and air into the room if this changes what you would recommend. Any help would be greatly appreciated

  68. Robert says:

    Hi Lisa
    Thanks for stopping by. I am a big fan of cordless top down bottom up treatments for a bay where privacy is a concern because you can lower the top to let light and fresh air in while at the same time maintain your privacy. Type of treamtment will depend on how much space you have between each window. If you have little space then cellular shades work well because you can get them close to your window and butt the shades together with a very mininal gap. Roman or woven woods will work as well. There will just be a larger gap between the shades. Drawback of these treatments is there either up or down. If you have more space between the windows then a sheer shade would work. Nice thing about them is you have more control over light and privacy. They have a very soft (sheer) look to them. These are just some things to consider. If you have any futher questions please ask.

    Good Luck

  69. Chad says:

    Hi Bob,

    We recently purchased a new home and are considering cellular blackout blinds for room darkening and insulation. The problem is that on a couple of windows, there is a 1/2″ width discrepancy between the top and bottom.

    Knowing they cut 1/4″ for the headrail and 1/2″ for the fabric, we are afraid that will let too much light in in the mornings on the sides. Any suggestions on closing that gap?

  70. Robert says:

    Hi Chad
    I I think you should go with the measurments you have. I wouldn’t play with that 1/4 inch because it’s approx. a 1/4 inch. It might turn out to be 3/16. Either way your not picking up much width and have a lot to loose if your shade doesn’t fit. What you could do to close up the gap is to mount it as far back or as close to the window as possible. Unless you mount drapery panels over each side that will be as good as it gets.
    Good luck

  71. Pat says:

    I just moved into my brand-new house, and I have a set of sliding glass doors in my kitchen. I had it in mind to hang Waverly toile drapes, purchased ‘off the rack’ at Lowe’s, similar to the illustration on this website:

    but the catch is that my new sliding glass doors also features a narrow rectangular window on top. Placing the rod above this window would not leave sufficient length for the drape panels (they are 84″ long) to reach the floor. My husband and I were debating putting the rod just above the doors and leaving the top window ‘bare.’ Should we do this, or will that just look too odd?

    Thanks! Any help would be great appreciated!!

  72. Robert says:

    Hi Pat
    I think the look you want is perferred by most customers with a transom window above their patio, if they can get away with it. If you mount below you have to take a look at where your brackets will be placed. The end brackets can go on the wall just outside the trim if any. The center support is the problem. Based on the image and the bracket type I don’t think you will have enough surface area to install the center support. And if you did will the screws that have to be screwed into the frame to attach the support interfer with with the door as you slide it back and forth.
    Also will the sun be a factor. Blinding at certian times of day, fading wood floors, furniture or paintings.

  73. dd says:

    I installed new windows recently. But my old blinds cannot be installed because there is not enough room for the bracket. The blinds were meant for inside mount. I am open to installing them outside the frame. Is there a way or brackets that are long enough to compensate for the length.

  74. Robert says:

    Hi DD
    Did you have replacement windows installed ?

  75. STEVEN GEMENY says:

    Hi Robert

    I’m installing 4 cellular cordless top down, bottom up blackout blinds in my bedroom. Two windows are 36×37 and two are 25×50. My question is should I go with a 1/2 single cell or a 3/8 double cell (or a different size). Will one size function better with the cordless blackout feature? Does one look better than the other? The insulation properties are not as big of a priority as the way they look and function.

    Thanks, Steve

  76. Robert says:

    Hi Steven
    Sorry about taking so long to answer but my power has been out all week. Are these shades side by side meaning are the (2) 36X37 butting together in one opening. I found that the smaller and lighter the shade the less issues you have with the cordless mechanics. So even though 1 shade who be a cleaner look and block out more light, 2 would last longer without issue. The 1/2 cell would be lighter the the double 3/8 cell.


  77. Kay says:

    Need help with a question about mounting new blinds. What should have been simple has become a real headache. We are upgrading a rent house so that we can put it on the market to sell. When we bought the mini-blinds we found that the new ones didn’t fit the 1″ brackets that were in the house. We took down the brackets and are now having problems mounting the new brackets because the holes don’t line up. Do we patch the old holes? If so, how and with what? Do you put some kind of a shim between the bracket and the window dry wall? We don’t know what to do now. It shouldn’t be this hard, should it? THANK YOU. Kay

  78. Robert says:

    Hi Kay

    Are these inside or outside mounts. Also are the brackets the type that fit on the ends of the blinds? Were these custome made or off the shelve and what brand? I’ll beable to help you more once I know a little more.


  79. Kay says:

    Hi, Robert. Inside mounts, and the brackets fit over the ends of the blinds. Bali were cut to size, and the second type, Home Depot’s store brand, for those that fit without resizing. We did some checking and got some drywall anchors; my husband tested one and we think that will work. Home Depot said they thought that would support the weight of the blind, and the expansion would fill up the excess size of the hole. “Molly bolts” was what we were told they are called by a couple of friends – never heard that before, and may not be spelling it right. Are there any gotchas that you can see coming at us? We really appreciate the expert advice. Thanks. Kay.

  80. Robert says:

    Try 2 or 3 inch screws before the mollys. Most of the time anchors are use because the screws used are too short and don’t reach the wood behind the drywall. 2 inch screws will reach the wood and be a much more secure installation.

  81. Kay says:

    Hi, Bob. Thanks for this good advice. We seem to be hitting the nails used in framing the windows pretty often, and that has been very frustrating trying to work around that. This is not going very fast, but we have made a little, painful progress. Thanks again for the help. We appreciate it.

  82. Jen says:

    We have vertiglide cellular shade for our door wall. We took it apart and cleaned it all up and now we don’t remember how to put it back together. Is there a diagram somewhere for us to look at? I look online all I can find for is regular window blinds.

    Please help

  83. Robert says:

    Hi Jen

    Here’s a link to their installation instructions. There are some detailed diagrams that I hope will be helpful. Good Luck

  84. Diane says:

    Help please. I’m so frustrated. I like to have light-weight curtains on my patio door, which is right off my kitchen. The sun shines on that side of the house, and I need the curtains for that as well as privacy. I push them aside when going in or out the doors. Anyway, there are two doors. I have a rod that spans the top of the doorway. The rod is secured on both ends with screws that I put into the studs. It is necessary to have a third bracket, which is in the middle. My wall is sheetrock. I’ve tried two different types of anchors with this bracket, but each time it eventually start pulling out. My next thought was to purchase an extra bracket, and put two more in (total of 4) into studs. Upon checking, I’m not finding any studs above the door (except at the ends and across the header). How can I secure the rod in the middle?

  85. Robert says:

    HI Diane
    I would suggest using a longer screw. There is a 6-8 inch wide wooded header behind your drywall that spans the width of your door. So as long as your not too high above your trim you will hit the header with longer screws. Try 2 or 3 inch screws. Let me know how it goes.


  86. Barbara says:

    Hi Bob and Co.!

    I want to buy 2 inch blinds to hang WITHIN my window moldings. The windows are doublehung and I have only @ 3/4 deep wood trim on which to hang the blinds. (This trim is right in front of the metal glide for the windows.) Not enough space per “the know it alls”.
    I realize the blinds WILL stick out but that is OK with me. (They will have the look of some shutters that way.) I know the cornice that comes attached to the blind will also stick out but that will be covered by valances. I do not want to cover my attractive wood moldings with the blinds, and feel that inset blinds are much more charming.
    Please give me your opinion and tips on this, please. (I do not have my blinds yet, so I would
    be happy to check out yours, too! Thanks so much!


  87. Robert says:

    Hi Barbara
    3/4 inch depth is plenty of room to do an inside mount, 2 inch wood blind. You can fit most wood blinds into as little as 1/2 inch. But It’s always a good idea to check with the place you want to order from for minimum depth requirements.

    Good Luck

  88. Nicole says:

    Hi Bob,

    I also have new window moldings and doublehung windows. I am considering faux wood and 3/8″ honeycomb shades. my depth is less then 1/4 inch and I had someone out to give me a quote. She told me that this is no problem. Is this true? Is there a way it still looks good or what kind of mount would you do? I love the trim and wanted to show it off. Most of the people want to mount it on the trim. Is that the better option? I have the 2 1/4 colonial trim. Or woud it be better to mount it over the frame. We would like to avoid having holes in the trim, but it has to make sense too.

    I love your webside. It is hard to find someone to help out. Everybody is giving you different advice, depending what they want to sell.


  89. Nicole says:

    Hi Bob,

    I forgot something to ask. Because the trim is not flat, like the manufacturers always point out. Will it look akward to mount it. Would the installer shim it somehow? And the shims are visible?

    Thank you again.


  90. Robert says:

    Hi Nicole
    A 1/4 inch depth is not much to get a cellular shade in there and forget a wood blind. A Wood blind would’t work and if you tried to force it in, after a tug or two it’s coming down. I would recommend a mock inside mount. That’s where you mount on the trim but leave most of the trim exposed. You can do it with either wood blinds or cellular shades. Here’s a couple of pictures. Let me know if you have any futher questions. Also the trim doesn’t have to be flat. It could have some detail like in the pics. But A installer would us shims it if they felt it needed them.


    Mock Inside Mount Wood Blind Without A Valance
    Mock Inside Mount Wood Blind With A Valance

  91. Nicole says:

    Hi Robert,

    Thank you. Is the mock mount like a mount on the trim? What kind of hardware is needed? When do you go over the trim? Would a faux wood blind show wall color when mounted over the trim. What is your preference when mounting shades or blinds like in a window you are showing above. You were writing in another article in most cases you mount on the frame. What is the reason for that? Is mounting on the frame considered outside mount when ordering online?

    I am very glad that I found your webside. The whole thing is very confusing when you get so many different opinions from salespeople.


  92. Robert says:

    Hi Nicole

    You don’t need any special hardware to do a mock inside mount. You just use the hardware that comes with the blind. Remember even though it’s called a mock inside mount it’s ordered as a outside mount. I only recommend mounting on the trim when the application calls for it. Also it’s very important to understand the difference between a inside and outside mount. When inside mount is specified the mfg will take a small deduction off the width. So a 78 inch blind will actually be more like 77 1/2. And if it’s a wood or faux wood blind the valance will not have returns. This is done to ensure the blinds fits in your opening. A outside mount is made to exact measurements. A 78 inch wide blind will be made 78 inches wide and the valance will have 3 1/2 returns.

  93. Matt says:

    My Fun!!!

    I just got several new windows but my blinds no longer fit. I have mini-blinds that were mounted inside. I have no place to mount inside or the window would not function. My molding is kinda fancy but I might be able to mount a bracket. Only problem is since they were inside they are not long enough for outside. Where do I find a extension for the head rail or does it not exist? I went to lowes but they were no help as they said the only bracket for mini-blinds are the ones it comes with. The ones it comes with are kinda small square boxes with a little plastic slide in flat cap.

    These blinds are still in pristine condition only a year or so old. 🙁

    If I can not find something to make this easier I might break down and cry LoL. I will have to make something which I have about 1 bil ideas already.
    I could use wood to extend the rail and make a decent looking bracket (best alternative if nothing simpler).
    I could cut out a section of the molding and make a plaster cast and imbed a home made bracket (but this is risky might do more harm than good).
    And the list goes on…. please tell me they make a simple extender LoL.


  94. Robert says:

    Hi Matt
    Whenever you get replacement windows they install some quarter round so you lose depth in your window opening. But you usally have enough to still mount a inside mount mini blind. Are these plastics or metal minis? How much depth do you have now. Not sure what type of extension your looking for. Are you trying to project the blind out away from the window?

    Let Me Know

  95. Ryan says:

    Hi Bob,
    I am installing wood blinds in a new home. I have a window “cluster” that is actual 2 windows wide with a third arch-type window above, all in 1 frame so no wood across the center. The window is 64″ wide so too wide to mount without a center support. I don’t want to drill into the window frame to attach any support in the center as this will void any warranty and just doesn’t seem like a good idea. Can you suggest some options? Thanks for your help.

  96. Robert says:

    Hi Ryan
    I would suggest using a palladium shelf. It’s about the size of a 2 x 4 that fits across the opening just below the arch. It is attached at each end. The blinds center support then mounts to the shelf. The’re not too hard to install but have to be measured correctly. The only place I know of that makes them is LaFayette Interior out of Indiana but you have to find a dealer to buy from and they are pricey. I don’t have a picture but if you do a seach for palladium shelf you find several. If your handy you make your own. Cut a 2 x 4 to the proper width, sand and paint it . Then mount it at each end with L brackets.

    Good Luck

  97. Loman Ayer says:

    Bamboo Panel Track Window Covering
    Bought blinds from Sears. Instructions leave alot to be desired. Cannot
    get the panels to open and close!!!

  98. Robert says:

    Hi Loman
    Do you have everything installed and is it a wand or draw cord type control? Are they catching at the top. Sometimes the material is too thick where it is attached at the headrail. This will prevent the panels from drawing properly. If this is the case let me know and we’ll try to figure out a solution.


  99. Robert says:

    Hi Joy

    Try this site They have replacement brackets for 1″ mini blinds.

    Good Luck

  100. Kirk says:

    Have a Trapizoid Angle Top. Using Cellular. Have been told that they will only raise to the lowest point, start of the angle. Any options ? Have seen a patented moving headrail on a couple site that claim it will raise up all the way ??? Thanks in advance for any help, Kirk

  101. Robert says:

    HI Kirk

    Cellular shades for a trapizoid with a standard cord control will only raise to the lowest point. The remote control type ( moving headrail ) is the only one that I have seen that will draw completed up.


  102. Sandra says:

    Do you know if Levelor custom Acadia Cordless single Cellular top-down, bottom-up shades with metal rails could have width cut off to fit different window than originally ordered shade for? Is it something the DIYer can do at home? If so, do you know where I can get instructions. If not DIY project, does it have to go back to factory? Thanks.

  103. Robert says:

    Hi Sandra
    I don’t know if they can be cut down. I don’t think I would want to attempt it because there is a risk of damanging the componets that make it go up and down. I would contact Levelor maybe they can cut it down (if it’s a small amount). If it’s a new shade and was mis-measured they may do a 50/50 split. Meaning reorder it at 50% of your cost.

    Good Luck

  104. I want to have the controls and stack of vertical blinds at opposite ends. Is this possible and if so, how?

  105. Robert says:

    Hi Gerry
    Yes it is possible. This is an option offered by most companies. It may cost a little extra, when placing your order online just select controls left and stack right or the other way around.

    Good Luck

  106. Thanks for your earlier reply. But the blinds are already installed on windows and sliders of an existing home that we recently purchased. For one of the sliders I’d like to modify the existing installation so the controls and stack are at the opposite ends. There seems to be a “fixed” slat at the control end. Is it possible to make that slat moveable and fix or secure a slat at the other end? I am able to reverse the entire blind and have already done that.

  107. Lor says:

    We are installing cellular blinds, our window frames are approximately 5 inches deep from frame edge to glass. Is it more efficient to install closer to the glass or at the edge (blinds are inside mount).

    We live in northern canada so do need an air circulation space, just not sure if the efficiency will be compromised if they are installed to far from the glass. Our windows are new triple pane installed fall 2011.


  108. Robert says:

    Hi Lor

    Cellular blinds are going to be energy efficient either way maybe a little better closer to the glass but not much. There are some pros and cons to mounting closer to the glass. Pros; you can utilize the sill, the debth adds charactor. Cons are because there is less air circulation in the winter ice will build up on the glass.
    Mounting flush with the wall is a cleaner look and has less ice build up since there is more room for air to circulate. Disadvantage is you loose the use of the sill and a little less energy efficient.

    Thanks For Your Question

  109. Lor says:

    Thanks for your answer… we will install today! As for using the sill if there is stuff on it then it is harder to dust 😉

  110. Robert says:

    Good point!

  111. Kathleen says:

    Trying to choose insulating, privacy cellular shades for bedroom.
    2 windows- one is very tall trapezoid with angle at top. Widths are standard.
    Prefer cordless. Can you suggest a preferred manufacturer?
    What is best for size of cell?
    House is post and beam so shades will be mounted inside beams.

  112. Robert says:

    Hi Kathleen
    A company called Blindchalet can help you with a trapezoid window. They will walk you through the process and let you know what measurments will be needed. These shades are available in privacy, cordless and a cell size 1/2 or better will give you excellent insulation. Here is a link to there information page for Trapezoids.

    Thanks for the question

  113. Deb says:

    Hi Bob,

    Why aren’t aluminum verticals made anymore? Just curious.



  114. Robert says:

    Hi Deb

    I don’t know if they aren’t made anymore but I havn’t seen them in years. They were very noisy and bent easily. The vinyl material used a lot today are more plyable and still nosiy when they cling in the wind but not as bad as aluminum.


  115. Caroline Busey says:

    Hello –

    We have a kitchen door with a window that we need to cover. The door is metal and I don’t want to drill into it. In fact, the owner wont let us drill into it anyway. Right now, it’s covered by a curtain that is attached to the door by a short magnetic rod. The only magnetic rod I’ve been able to find looks like this

    * OR *

    Both very unattractive choices for me. The blinds only come in 1 color and they are flimsy. Is there ANY other option – can you think of ANY other way I could hang a curtain or blinds without drilling into the metal door?

    Is there any other magnetic blind out there? Many thanks – Caroline.

  116. Helen says:

    Hi I ordered roman blinds nice pattern, and i ordered outside mount and they sent me inside mount they may make good on my order but if not can i hang inside mount roman blinds outside?!

  117. Robert says:

    Hi Caroline

    I don’t know how much money you want to put into this but there is a enclosed blind that will attach to the door without drilling hole. here’s a link to an article I wrote “Do it yourself enclosed blinds” it’s also available as a cellular shade.


  118. Robert says:

    Hi Helen
    The only difference between inside and outside mount is they will take a small decuction off the width. For example if you ordered it 36 inches wide by 60 inches long on a inside mount you will get a Roman shade about 35 3/4 wide by 60 inches long. So the answer to your question is yes you can it just might be a little narrower. By the way, how do you know it’s an inside mount?


  119. Caroline says:

    Bob – thank you so, so, so much. I never knew such a thing as enclosed blinds existed. I ran out to one of the big box stores yesterday and snapped one up. Hubby will be installing it tomorrow. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks so much!

  120. Robert says:

    Your welcome….and I would love to hear how it went.

  121. Sharon says:

    I’m looking for top down bottom up blinds. I have a metal door and want ones that are attached magneticaly. Do you know where I would be able to buy these? You can give me store websites.

    Thank you

  122. Robert says:

    Hi Sharon
    I don’t know of top down bottom up blinds that are magnetic. But there are some that attach without drilling holes in your door. They are called enclosed shades. They come in various sizes but I think your limited to just whites and off whites for color. Here’s a link to check them out……..enclosed shades

  123. Elise says:

    Dear Robert,

    I have 4 patio doors ,two side by side set, downstairs
    the other upstairs the same. A passive solar home. I would like to make some large lined roller shades for each of the doors. I’ve seen it done before and look really nice. It rolled up all the way, and the top was covered with a valance. Would you know what the type of hardware with clutch, and plastic/metal cord I could use, and where I could look to find them?
    Thank you for your help, and any suggestions you may have.

  124. Robert says:

    Hi Elise

    Sure can help you with this. Roller shades are avail in light filtering, room darkening and sun or solar screen. I take it because you want it lined that your interested in the room darkening.The chain is referred to as a continuous loop lift chain. It is an option and ussally at no charge, just have to call it out when ordering. The valance is also a option and normally cost extra. It’s referred to as a cassette. Here’s a link Roller Shades. Let me know if you have futher questions or how to measure them correctly.


  125. Elise says:

    Hi Robert,

    Thank you for your quick and kind reply. I will go to the link you so nicely provided and see all that is available.


  126. Caroline says:

    Bob – I have several typical windows in the kitchen where I want to hang blinds. The only unusual thing about the windows is their depth.

    They are NOT very deep – meaning the part of the window up at the very top where the blinds would be hanging from.

    The windows are about 1/2″ deep or just slightly under. What I’m finding is that pretty much any size slay will work (be it mini 1″ or 2″ blind) – the slat size isn’t the problem … but I can’t hang them because the head rail is too deep.

    I guess I’m asking what is the most shallow head rail available? i’ve searched hi & lo.

    What options do I have? Any suggestions? Thanks – Caroline

  127. Robert says:

    HI Caroline

    With 1/2 depth you have plenty of options. First yo can go with a cellular shade which has a small headrail. Or a 2 inch wood blind. The headrail will stick out a bit but you can hide it by ordering the valance with returns, take a look at this post “step by step guide for valances on your 2 inch wood blinds“. This is a common installation since most homes don’t have enough depth to completly recess 2 inch wood blinds. You can also do whats called a mock inside mount. This type of installation is when you can’t do a inside mount but don’t want your trim covered up. Take a look at this picture” mock inside mountonly thing missing in this picture is the valance. Lastly you can go with a one inch wood blind. It has a much smaller bracket, only drawback is it obstructs your view more since there are more slats.

  128. Maura says:

    I have a window that is up high in an open stairway. I would like to get cellular shades but they are all cordless and I would be unable to put them up and down which I would like to do for sun in the day and privacy at night. I can reach the bottom and about 4 inches up from the sill. Is there any type of extension to put cordless shades up and down or do you have other suggestions.

  129. Robert says:

    Hi Maura
    For hard to reach cordless shades you can use a extension pole with a special attachment to raise and lower. I would check with the company where you are going to buy from first and if they don’t offer one then I know sells them. Companies that sell treatments for skylites usually sell them.

    Good Luck

  130. Debi says:

    I have white wood horizontal blinds in my bedroom and I desperately want them to be mounted on the inside versus the outside.

    I only have about 1/2″ on the inside to work with however. Any tricky suggestions???

  131. Robert says:

    Hi Debbie
    1/2 inch is pushing it but possible still do-able. Take a look at the picture here, your bracket should look something like this. If it does, hold it up to see if a screw would hit wood or drywall. If it does your good. Use self tapping or tek screws (find them at the local hardware store) and drill them in on an angle.

    IM bracket with 1 inch debth

    If you determine you don’t have the room for am inside mount. The other option is to do a mock inside mount. Take a look at the next two pictures for an explanation.
    mock inside mount
    mock inside mount

    If your brackets don’t look anything like these, let me know. Also let me know if it does or doesn’t work out.


  132. debi says:

    Thanks! It’s now on my husbands “honey do” list.

  133. Shewana White says:

    I purchased some wood blinds from a co-worker that was moving out of state. When i got them home & put them up they were too short in width. I figured I could make them work anyway. My question is what can I use to diguise the short appearance in width without having to purchase another set of blinds?

  134. Robert says:

    Hi Shewana

    How many blinds are there? How big of a gap will there be? If it’s under a 1/2 inch I would leave it. Otherwise you could get some inexpensive drapery panels and hang them on each side.


  135. Michelle says:

    Help! We close on the purchase of our new house July 31 and will be moving in mid August. The window in our master bedroom is a large, beautiful palladian facing the west. There are no trees outside, so there is nothing to block light. My husband works at night and needs a dark room in which to sleep during the day. Right now there is nothing covering the window. Our main challenges are these:
    1. The window consists of 4 parts — a breadbox palladian arch, a large center window below the arch and a more narrow window on each side of the large center window.
    2. All the windows are inside the same wooden trimmed frame.
    3. The window is at the end of the room which has a vaulted ceiling, so a drapery pole can’t be installed above the palladian and cover all 3 lower windows. We could install one above the arch that covers the center window, but then I don’t know what to do about the outside windows.
    4. We need something we can install quickly and that doesn’t cost a lot. There are a lot of costly things we need to do to the house as we are moving into it.
    I wish I could upload a photo so that you could see my challenge.

    I desperately need advice… the clock is ticking and I don’t know what to do!

  136. Robert says:

    Hi Michelle

    I am familiar with this type window arrangement. A somewhat quick solution that I think blocks out the most light is cellular. I would go with room darking cellular shades on the 3 bottom windows and a room darkening cellular sunburst arch on the top. You could probably have the 3 botton cellular shades in a couple of weeks of ordering. The arch will take much longer, for a temp solution until the arch arrives you could put up a room darkening temp paper shade that just sticks onto the wall. I would recommend having all the windows professional measured since a template will have to be made for the arch. problem you might run into is if there is no seperation between the arch and window below, let me know if this is the case.

    This will really darken the room while hopefully not breaking the bank. Once you have more time and money you can add a layered look by adding drapery panels. Couple of different ways you can do this and would be happy to help you when ready.

  137. Michelle says:

    Thanks for your response, Robert. Unfortunately, I priced out the cellular blinds option, and because this window is so large, and because the arch has legs and requires a custom/templated job, the arch alone will cost about $400 and the remaining cellular shades will cost about $525. We can’t spend almost $1,000 just to cover this one window. There are NO window coverings on any windows in this house, so this is just the beginning. Do you have any suggestions that would be less expensive but still look nice?


  138. Robert says:

    Hi Michelle
    I might have a solution for you but before we go futher can you measure the width of the arch at its widest point and the height at its highest point (center). Your trying to find out if the height is 1/2 the width. Will be waiting for your answer.


  139. Kara says:

    My problem is trapizoid windows. They are second story windows that need to be covered to keep out heat and the suns glare. Since they are wider than 72″, the motorized honeycombs won’t work according to Hunter Douglas. We don’t want to use the window film because Anderson windows will no longer warranty the the windows. Nor do we want the vertical blinds with cords hanging all the way down. Looked into motorized curtain rods but looks like the attached motor won’t work for the angled window.
    HELP!! My A/C is running full time!!

  140. Robert says:

    Hi Kara

    Unfortunately no one makes specially shapes with remote control or cordless. 2 things I could suggest, first one is to mount a cellular shade above which can be remote control. Or second you could do it in 3 treatments. Frist mount a trapizoid cellular in the trapizoid section. This will be a seperate treatment and would always cover that part of the window. Then directly below the trapizoid mount a palladium shelf, this is the equivalent of a fancy 2×4 as wide as the opening. Next you mount a motorized cellular shade to the palladium shelf. So you end up with a trapizoid cellular shade that doesn’t raise and a motorzed cellular shades below that’s operable the you need something to mount these treatments so you have a palladiun between them. Any questions let me know.


  141. Nicole says:

    I have white horizontal blinds in my bedroom… Well, we thought they were white when we moved in. It took us putting a white duvet on our bed to realize they’re now off white, or always were. We’re not the original owners. We’re wondering if we can do anything to make them white again. They aren’t fabric, they’re almost like wood blinds, but softer. I’m thinking they’re a faux wood blind. Is there anything you can suggest to fix them, rather than buying new ones?

    Thank you!!

  142. Robert says:

    Hi Nicole

    As long as they are faux woods, take them down and put them in a bathtub of warm water and mild soap and let them soak for an hour. Then wipe them down with a dry cloth and re-hang and let dry. When doing this try not to let the headrail get too wet. I also had a homeowner say she soaked hers in hot water and a little bleach for an hour, rinsed, wiped down and re-hung and and said it worked great. Hope this helps.


  143. Chris says:

    Hi Robert, I am looking for a window with the blinds / shades inside the glass. I am remodeling our first floor bathroom, which has a window that faces a busy street… so the existing blinds are left with a lot of dirt/dust on them. My wife’s birthday is in a few days, and I wanted to surprise her!
    Our existing window is 24 inches wide by 39.5 inches tall. If there are no options for enclosed blinds in a window, I was hoping you could recommend an alternative window treatment/blinds/shades that allow air in/out, provide privacy when needed, and are easy to clean every few weeks. Thanks so much!! Chris

  144. Cheryl says:

    I have a 6 ft wide cordless honeycomb cellular vertical blind ( 8 years old) that snapped on one side only which means it is hanging lopsided now. Seems to have a magnetic system but I am not sure. It’s heavy. How can I fix it myself ?

  145. Nancy says:

    Help! We just bought a home that has inside mount wood blinds, unfortunately the former owners never installed the valances and therefore the tops of the blinds are bare. I would like to know if there is way to order or make new valances for these blinds.


  146. Stephanie says:


    we have 2 french doors in our living room. The sun really shines in that room and i was wondering if there was anything else but magnetic vertical blinds available out there? I want to use magnetic brackets..


  147. Robert says:

    Hi Chris

    Sorry for the late response. Hopefully you still have time to suprise her. There is a product by a company called ODL that makes a enclosed blind that fits onto your existing opening. I know you can get them through Amazom but I think Home Depot and Lowes carry them as well. They come in fixed sizes, so you have to pick the closet fit to your opening. Here’s a link to an article I wrote on it which goes over installation, with pictures. Enclosed Blinds

  148. Robert says:

    Hi Cheryl

    Do you see any strings hanging. If it’s lopsided it sounds like the little piece at the top came off, it’s connected to a small wheel that rides in the headrail. I don’t think you could fix this by yourself. I would suggest having a installer take a look at it. If your real ambitious go online to do a search for a vertiglide manual. They your find diagrams with understandable pictures that might be of help.

    Good Luck

  149. Robert says:

    Hi Nancy

    This should be an easy one. Find an online store like or StevesBlinds or any other. Give them a call and ask if they would sell you some wood valances and valance clips. They will ask you what sizes you need, that’s where you have to get out the tape measure and measure the width of the opening at the top. Give them that diminsion (don’t take any deductios) and tell them these are inside mounts. Make sure they send you the clips.


  150. Karen says:

    We recently moved into a new house, and hate the curtain they had hanging over the sliding glass door. We took the hunter Douglas cellular vertical sliding blind we had in our previous house to install in the new house. Same dimensions on the door, but the door opens the opposite way. Is there any way to reverse the direction on the vertical slider? Thanks!

  151. Robert says:

    Hi Karen

    As far as I know you cannot change the direction of the draw on a vertiglide. I checked with a couple of sources and all come to the same conclusion.

  152. Nan says:

    Hi Bob,
    I’m having a weird problem with my Levelor blinds. When I bought three of them, two of the honeycombs were just about a half to an inch short-enought to be irritating but not enough to to get them fixed.
    Two years later they are almost two inches short! Really?? How is this even possible??
    But, the big question is what can I do about it? What are my options?
    Thank you.

  153. Nicki says:

    We have a levolor cellular shade in my daughters room that will not raise on the right side. When I go to raise it it does not catch and the cord at the top comes out. The lefts side works fine. When I looked in the top, there was a clip laying there so I put it back in thinking that would help but it didn’t. Any suggestions would be helpful! Thanks.

  154. Robert says:

    Hi Nan

    I take it you have cellular or honeycomb shades. Sounds like the draw cord has been shorten, you should have a couple of cords (depending on how wide the shade is) coming out of the headrail that connect to some kind of plastic piece and from that plastic piece is a single cord that when pulled your shade goes up. Those strings coming out of the headrail and into the plastic connector if were re-tie or came untied and then re tied for any reason will effect how far down the shade will go. See if there has been a couple of knots tied and untie them to make the string longer, just leave one knot. I know this sounds confusing but let me know if you need more or explantion.


  155. Pat Garner says:

    I have a small 2 door patio door. It is 84″ long and 69″ wide. I am making 3 panels 30″ wide from my own fabric. Where can I get just the correct hardware to hang my 3 panels so they slide behind each other. It will be outside door frame and slide from left to right.

    Can you help – I am desperate!

  156. Robert says:

    Hi Pat

    Your very ambitious but before you go any futher contact Stevesblinds, they can supply you with panel track rod that has the sliding rails. But check with them on how the panels will be attached. Most likely you will have to seam a strip of velcro along the top edge of the panels but they can tell you for sure. Here’s a link to

    Good Luck

  157. Joanne Moore says:

    Hi Bob,

    In my living room I have horizontal blinds which the sun has darkened. Can I use the existing hardware and just order new blinds?

    Thank you,

  158. Robert says:

    Hi Joanne
    Only way you could use the same hardware would be if you checked with the company you want to order from to see if they use the same type of brackets. If you determine it’s the same, I would inspect the old brackets to make sure they is no damange to them before installing new blinds. Which ever new blinds you decide to go with will come with new brackets.


  159. Deb says:

    I would like to hang top down bottom up cellular shades inside but don’t have the depth. Would a mock inside mount work? I hate to cover up the wood trim.


  160. Robert says:

    Hi Deb

    Yes it would work. That’s exactly what a mock inside mount is for. If you have beautiful trim why cover it up if you don’t have to. Did you pick out your shades yet ? Do you know where on your trim to mount the shades? Let me know if you need help.

    Good Luck

  161. Marilee says:

    I would like to hand my draped inside the window with the blinds. Is there an attachment to the blind header that you can hang a curtain rod? If so where can you purchase them?

  162. Robert says:

    Hi Marilee
    I am not aware of a drapery rod that attaches to a blind headrail. If you have a deep window opening do you have the room to mount the drapes in front of the blinds, if so you can just get a standard rod will work.


  163. Mike says:

    Recently ordered and installed a 79″-wide spring-type roller shade for a single pane window. Problems: the slot-end bracket is deforming and spreading open. The ratchet mechanism won’t stay seated in the tube. When attempting to raise shade, it catches after just a few inches of travel. It takes multiple tries to get the shade to finally release so it can be raised. This does not appear to be a problem of too much or too little tension. Could it be due to shade being cut too short? When fully extended, tube exposed, end of shade is just a few inches below bottom of window.

  164. Maureen says:

    We took down our patio door blind to repaint the kitchen dining area. Now we are having a problem getting it to lock when shutting it or lock in place when we open it all the way. I’m not sure of the brand, but it’s a verticle honeycomb shade that is all one piece as opposed to verticle slats. It seems that the string that runs along the top of the track is loose….can we tighten it somehow? The string wasn’t showing prior to taking it down, and now it just kind of hangs there. What did we do, and can we fix it? Thanks!

  165. Robert says:

    Hi Mike
    Those spring roller shades seem to have a mind of their own sometimes. The problem raising might be because the end where the bracket is defromed is allowing the mech. inside the shade to move. I would call the company where you bought it form and ask for some new brackets. This should solve your problem.


  166. Robert says:

    Hi Maureen

    Sounds light you just need to adjust the tension. This is how you adjust it for the most popular brands; follow the string to a small clear plastic piece that is in the track. If you gently push on the plastic piece it will slide left or right. By sliding it you will either increase or decrease the tension. As you increase the tension those strings that are hanging will tighten up. Good Luck


  167. Naima says:


    Are there other rods which can be adapted to accept the Hunter Douglas Luminette blinds?

    Thanks for your help,


  168. Robert says:

    HI Naima
    The Hunter Douglas Luminette rod is unique. I havn’t seen another that can be used in it’s place. You might be able to purchase the rod alone. Check with HD for a local dealer.


  169. Laura says:

    Hi Bob,
    I bought some top-down bottom up honeycomb shades about a year ago and they are inside mounted. We are now going to replace the windows they are on and will no longer have the room to mount them inside. The company I bought them from said I would have to buy new shades that are outside mounted. I don’t want to have to replace year old shades, so I was wondering if there was a way to mount them outside using the brackets I already have? They are from

  170. Robert says:

    Hi Laura

    Replacement windows always reduce the amount of depth but you usally have enough to re-mount them as inside mounts. You can mount them as outside mounts but you will have large gaps along the sides and most likly be short at the bottom. Before you go that route you still might be-able to put them back up as inside mounts. If they are the brackets I think they are then you only need about 1/2 inch of depth to get them back in. Can you tell me which honeycomb shades from selectblinds thay are and how much depth you have or will left. Is there any way you can email me a picture of the bracket?


  171. Dorothy says:

    Just bought horizontal wooden blinds and hung them. but cannot figure out how to get them to open and drop down. Pull on strings but nothing and they came with out instructions

  172. Robert says:

    Hi Dorothy

    Sometimes the cord lock on a new blind can be hard to disengage. Here’s what I do, grab the cords firmly and give it a good tug. After you give it a good tug pull the cord in toward the center of the blind. That will release the cord lock and allow the blind to be lowered.

    Good Luck

  173. Stu Ullrich says:

    We have a window that is not square–it come to a point at the top..We had to have the glass replaced when the installer put in the new glass he used a thinner stop to hold the glass in…now the blinds are not wide enough.
    There is no top to attach the brackets to so the brackets are attached to the side (about an inch..the blinds are now too short by about a half inch on each side. is there a way to add shims or a thin block of wood to give padding so the brackets can be attached but now they would be a half inch farther out so the blinds might fit… Please give me your feedback…Thank you

  174. Robert says:

    Hi Stu

    Not sure what you mean when it comes to a point at the top. Is the window just narrower at the top then the bottom? What type of blind is this, wood? If this is the type of blind where the brackets fit onto the ends the yes you can use a spacer. Wood spacer would be fine, just use longer screw.


  175. Jackie says:

    What type of tool can be used to open interior shutters on high windows?

  176. Renee says:

    Window treatment options for shallow window??

    We just replaced some bedroom windows, and I had planned to use the same TD/BU Hunter Douglas Duette cellular blinds that I have in other rooms. But the new windows have only 1″ depth for the window stop, and all the blinds I’ve looked at project forward at least 1 7/8″. (The Hunter Douglas Duettes project forward about 2 1/4″, but only where the cords are – the rest of the mount is about 1 1/2″ deep. I’m afraid it’s it going to look totally weird if the blind projects forward from the stop this much, and is offset from the window casing, as the photo shows. What do you think? I really wanted inside mount TD/BU and had planned on blackout shades.

    If that’s not going to work, another option would be to have a simple cornice over the the upper window casing, and have an outside mount cellular blind that can be retracted in the cornice. I’d like to come up with something that will look decent if the blinds are open at the top of the window to reveal the 4 upper panes, but closed down below. With an outside mount, how wide in relation to the casing should the blinds be, and still effectively block light?

    Any other suggestions for how to handle these windows? There are two identical windows on the same wall.

    Thanks for any and all suggestions.

    PS photos are posted on GardenWeb home decor/decorating site on 10/12 @13:57.

  177. Robert says:

    HI Jackie

    I have not seen a tool for this but had another person ask this same question not long ago. What they did is got an extension pole and taped a rubber coated hook to the tip then reach up and catch the tip either on the louvers or the tilt rod and gently pull.

    Good Luck

  178. Robert says:

    Hi Renee

    First I would check with HD for the minimum depth requirement for their TDBU cellular shades. I think it’s more then a inch. If it doesn’t meet the requirement don’t worry because there are many companies that have a 1/2 inch minimum depth requirement. I can’t tell you if it will look weird or not but I can tell you that to install cellular shades in this little amount and even less of depth is very common. Take a look at the cellular shades in this picture. It is installed in only 3/4 in depth.

    Cellular shade picture

    Thanks For Your Comment

  179. Bonnie says:

    I want to replace my old verticals for sliding doors with grabber pleated shades hung vertically. Because
    The inside installation is likely not perfectly square I have been advised to have them mounted outside the frame. I am okay with that. My slider is Pella, a good door and it is in my dinette. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to go with double cell 3/8″ and single cell 3/4″. I expect a little better insulation from double cell, but does it look nicer with 3/4″ folds? Door size is 83″ wide. Does it look too busy with the 3/8″ folds? Thanks for any feedback.

  180. Robert says:

    Hi Bonnie

    The vertical cellular is a very nice treatment and I am sure you will be happy with it. As far as 3/8 vs 3/4 cell, only advantage 3/8 has is it’s a better insulator and will look more proportional on a smaller window. Thanks for your comment.


  181. Elena says:

    I would like to install a very contemporary-looking roller shade on my sliding glass door. I would like to install it inside mount, flush, but I only have about 1 1/2″ I also want the smallest stack possible. The shade will be raised/open most of the time so I want it to “disappear” as much as possible. Which brands would you recommend?

    Thanks in advance for your help!

  182. Robert says:

    Hi Elena

    Roller shades are a nice choice for a slider. But with a 1-1/2 depth, the shade with stick out a little. The shades in this picture are outside mounts but will give you an idea. Also notice the door handle, here the shade clears the handle but an inside mount most likely it will hit. You can order it as a reverse roll (material rolls off the front instead of the back of the roller)then it should clear the handle. As far as the stack is concerned, 2 shades butting together be smaller than one shade. Reason is on one they use a larger dia. roller core so it will hold up without bending. Smaller or narrower shades use a smaller core. As far a a recommendation, I like Here’s a link to their roller shades… Roller shades

    Outside Mount roller shades on slider

  183. Lauren says:

    I have outside mount roller shades with cassettes on them and I would like to hang panels to make it feel more cozy. Since the valance/cassette is so wide is this possible?

  184. Robert says:

    Hi Lauren
    Yes it is possible. You just have to find a rod that has brackets that project far enough to clear the cassettes. They are available but you have to search them out.If you can answer these question I could help you in your search. Are these stationary panels? Are you planning on using a decorative rod? Wood or metal? You’ll have a better chance on finding that type of projection with metal.

  185. Lauren says:

    Yes I will be using a metal decorative rod. The cassette measures about 31/2in. total (projected) from the wall. If I hang a rod that sticks out that far wouldn’t that look bad from the side? Since the panels wouldn’t be somewhat flush to the window? Thank you!

  186. Darlene Dunaway says:

    I have 3 basement windows with the inside measurement L = 18″ by W = 31″. I need to be able to block all light. Which would look best on such small windows, vertical or horizontal blinds? What type of blind would you recommend?

  187. Robert says:

    Hi Lauren
    Sorry for the late reply. 3-1/2 inches is not bad. You will need about a 5 inch projection bracket to clear. Look for a rod that has projection brackets, they adjust from 3-1/2 to 5-1/2 and shouldn’t be hard to find. Make sure you have enough fabric on the ends so you can bring it to the wall and create a return. This will give it a finished look from the sides.

    Here’s a link to a site that carries metal decorative rods and adjustable brackets to help you get started…
    click here

    Good Luck

  188. Robert says:

    Hi Darlene
    Those are small windows to use a vertical treatment in. I would recommend either a cellular shade or a wood or faux wood blind. Wood or faux woods would get you the ability to control the light but the best for blocking light would be a room darkening cellular shade, I wrote a article on room darkening shades. You can view it here…Room Darkening Shades. Let me know if you have any more questions.


  189. Lauren says:

    You mentioned make sure you have enough fabric so you can bring it to the wall to give it a finished look. I do t understand if the rod is straight and protrudes out 5in how can I bring the fabric towards the wall? Will I need to get a rod that curves from the wall out?

  190. Robert says:

    Hi Lauren
    You can use any decorative metal as long as your not doing a rod pocket. I tried to draw a diagram for you. I am no artist but hope you get the idea. Push a drapery pin into the fabric and drill a small screw into the wall and hook the pin onto the screw. This will give you a return or finished look from the sides.
    Good Luck

  191. Iggy says:

    Hi Bob,
    Bought some Levolor 2″ faux wood (after buying 2″ real wood and taking it back)… can’t drop the blinds! Have pulled, tugged, threatened, whined and everything else. Directions are horrible, can’t find anything on the web. How do I get these things down? Thanks!

  192. Robert says:

    Hi Iggy

    Sometimes on new blinds the locking mechanism can jam, causing it to be very difficult to release the blind . To release the blind do the following. While hanging, lift up the slats by hand to take some slack off the locking mechanism. While holding lifting the slats in one hand, grab the cord with the other hand and pull down and in toward the center of the blind. That should do it but for some reason it doesn’t, let me know.


  193. Joe says:

    Hi Bob, my wife and I ordered custom leveler roman shades for our master bedroom. Unfortunately, we measured wrong and one shade is 3 inches too wide for the window. These are td/bu, inside mounted shades. It Needs to be 45 in., we mis-measured at 48 in. Any way or anywhere to get those cut to the correct size, instead of having to buy a new shade for our window. Please help!!

  194. Mary says:

    I recently purchased some Bali roller shades with an inside mounting bracket. I did not correctly measure the depth of my window and the bracket is too large. Is there a way to convert this to an outside mount or purchase new brackets? Or do I have to mount ABOVE my window frame and have it look sort of weird?

  195. Robert says:

    Hi Joe
    I feel bad for you, your not the first to mis-measure a blind. It’s happened to the best of us. I do not know of a place that will cut down a roman shades by 3 inches. I would check with the place you bought it and ask them if they could cut it down. If not you could have it re-made for 50% off what you paid, most places have a “oops” policy. They will re-make it at 50% of what you paid.

    Good luck

  196. Robert says:

    HI Mary
    Before I can help you, you need to answer a few questions. 1) How much depth do you have? 2) Do the shades have a cord to operate them? 3) Did you order it with a cassette? Hope to hear from you soon.


  197. Mary says:

    I am not sure of the depth but I will measure and get back to you on that. No pull cord to operate. Yes, it came with a cassette.

  198. judy says:

    can a patio door vertical blind that opened to the left, be made to draw to the right.

  199. Robert says:

    Hi Judy
    It’s very possible. You would have to remove the valance if any, and the vanes. Then unclip the headrail (rod) from the brackets and flip it around so all the carriers are to the right. Then clip the headrail back into the brackets and reinstall the vanes and valance. Good luck

  200. Nancy says:

    Robert, We have a pair of hunter douglas luminette with the power glide remote control system. We have an 8 ft. window right next to a 6 ft. patio door. The patio door sheer and remote work fine. We are having a problem with the split window. The remote will move the blinds from the stacked position and move the blinds towards each other but will start a grinding, racheting noise and we have to manually pull the power supply cord to get it to stop. The remote willl not tilt the vanes to a privacy or closed position. It will retract to the open (stacked) position and then once again not stop but grind and rachet until we once again pull the power supply. We did replace the rod from hunter douglas and once again same thing. I need to know what you think might be the problem – can I use another mfg. rod or am I just going to have to put up with pulling the power cord. Remember — the patio door system works GREAT! The power glide remote does both units. Any help would be very much appreciated since we have been dealing with this issue for over a year. Thank you!

  201. Robert says:

    HI Nancy

    These remote control treatments can be very frustrating, like they have a mind of there own. But when they do work they are impressive. It sounds like the limits need to be reset. Right not it doesn’t know when to stop so it keeps going and that it whats is causing the grinding noise. You have to reset the limits on just that one treatment. You can find the step by step procedures at HD’s web site or call and ask for tech support. Very important before you start is to disconnect the good one from the power source (usually a battery pack).

    Good Luck

  202. Claire Hebert says:

    Hi..this site has been helping me so much, except, I am on a tight budget and truly need to begin updating all of my old roller shades. I want to begin in living room. Since my windows do not allow for inside mount due to lack of room ( and I did order some and tried), I decided outside mount would be fine. Want either cellular shades or roman shades…maybe in bamboo or whatever…but #1-the cost and #2-not sure on size. One window from outside edge of mouldings is 37″ and other two are 36 1/2″ so there goes my chance of buying ready made…any suggestions to keep the cost low..really can’t spend $70 or so on each blind…doomed??? Thank you

  203. Robert says:

    HI Claire

    I checked several places for you and found the best price at They have Bamboo (woven woods) for $ 45.72. The size I pluged in for the price is 38X70 outside mount. The drawback is at this price is only available in golden oak. Then it jumps to $58.00 for about 8 more colors. I also checked and found bamboo shades (woven woods) for $59.91 in the same size but available in 10 colors, and if you buy 3 you get the 4th free bringing your price down to $44.93 each. Drawback is the buy 3 get 1 free sale ends Sunday 12-16-12 at midnight. The prices for cellular shades were a couple of dollars more. Good luck and if you have any more questions just ask.


  204. kathleen says:

    My window measures 31 1/2x 57 shouldI order up or down on the width?

  205. Robert says:

    Hi Kathleen

    I need you to answer 2 questions to give you a real good answer. What type of treatment are you measuring for? Is it going to be an inside or outside mount?

  206. Kitty says:

    Hi Bob,
    I have a 94″ by 46″ window and would like to replace the old mini blinds with 2″ faux wood blinds. I’m concernd about the weight. Is there a certain brand that weighs less than others? Or do you otherwise have any recommendations? We will not be raising/lowering the blinds very often, but will mostly just be opening & closing them daily. I really appreciate any advice!
    Thank you,

  207. Robert says:

    Hi Kitty

    94 X 46 would be pretty heavy to raise in a faux wood. But if you don’t plan on raising them too often it wouldn’t be too bad. If you wanted to stay with faux wood the only thing that would make it lighter is to do several blinds instead of one. For example if you have three windows butting together, go with 3 blinds and a common valance (valance that goes across the top of all three faux woods to tie them together). If you went with real wood instead of faux wood, that would reduce the weight quite a bit but would raise the price by about $50.00.

    Thanks for your question

  208. Julie says:

    Hi Bob,
    I have a small A-frame house with two windows up high that are not accessible. I would like to hang faux wood blinds on them but I would also like to be able to open and close the blinds. Without spending too much money, is there a remote system available? Or possibly extra long rods that hang down far enough?


  209. Robert says:

    Hi Julie

    The remote control blinds cost a lot more. For example a 24X36 faux that would cost approx $40.00 would be over $300.00 for remote control and the motor would only tilt the slats you would still have to draw the blinds up with a cord. A less expensive option is long controls. I know a company that will make long controls at no charge as long as you specify it at the time of order. You can order it in one foot lengths to how ever long you want. Just specify the length in the special instructions box.
    Here’s a link>>>>>Faux Woods with extra long cords

  210. Katana says:

    I bought an old house that was built in the 50’s. We are renovating it a little at a time and the outside blinds (attached to screens for the windows) unhook at the top and come off the house. We need to have them cleaned up and painted. Does anyone do this kind of work? Thanks.

  211. Art says:

    Hi, I have several steel doors with tall, narrow windows. I’d like to put aluminium magnetic blinds on them. They are only about 8″ wide and 28″ tall. Should I have a especially cut narrow blind made for them or just hang regular 25″ wide blinds on these windows and cover most of the door, too?

  212. Robert says:

    Hi Katana

    Not sure what type of blinds you have but there are business that will come to your house to clean your treatments. Not aware of anyone who will paint them.


  213. Robert says:

    Hi Art

    I would do one blind to cover both since you will have a very hard time finding an 8″ wide blind.

  214. Shannon says:

    I love the cordless cellular shades I have in my bedroom. When I went to order them for the living room and dining room, I discovered that my 17″ windows are too narrow for most companies. Is there any company that makes cordless cellular shades for 17″ width windows?

  215. Robert says:

    Hi Shannon

    Your right 17 inch cordless are hard to find. The cutoff is about 18.5 for many companies but there is one that does make them 17 wide. Here’s a link >>>>>> 17″ wide cordless cellular shades

  216. Kristin says:

    Hi. I just purchased inside mount 2″ wooden blinds from Steve’s blinds. In order to install the blinds, we would need to screw into the plastic piece between the wood on the frame (and trim) and the glass. the other option would mean that the bracket would stick out at least an inch from the wall and not look very good. Are there any options to hnag the wooden shared from the top on the window instead of side brackets?

  217. Robert says:

    Hi Kristin

    Are these double hung windows? You’re trying to mount them far back as possible so the blind is fully recessed in your window opening. The problem is if you set them back, when you go to raise the bottom half of the window you will hit the blind and prevent the window from raising completly. Also when you lower the blind you will always hit the lower window. In addition you might void any mfg. warranty if you drill into the plastic window frame. The good news is this is a very common situation. Most window openings don’t have enought depth for a full recess mount. What I would suggest to do is order outside mount valances with returns. The returns are that side piece on the valance that hides the bracket.Take a look at the pictures below. The first one shows a blind where the bracket sticks out quite a bit. The second pic shows the same blind with a outside mount valance with returns. Finishes it off quite nicely. I would contact and tell them how much much depth your brackets will be set back and that you need outside mount valances with returns. You want to give them the depth because they can calculate how long to make the returns. They may charge you or they might send them at no charge. Good luck, let me know how it goes.


    Wood blinds sticking out from frame

    Inside mount Wood blind with a outside mount valance with returns

  218. Hannah says:

    After we got a big window replaced I realized that I would not be able to use an inside mount on it for a honeycomb shade. I hate outside mounts, & there is really nice moulding around the window. Can you suggest a work-around for this problem? The window is a 2 way slider so it is deeper than the original window. Thank you

  219. Robert says:

    Hi Hannah

    I know when you get replacement windows you lose some of your depth. You still have a good chance of doing a inside mount. It depends on how much depth and the brand of cellular shade. Different companies use different brackets. Do you already have the shade? Look at the picture below. This is a bracket for a cordless cellular shade that has 3/4 inch depth. As long as you can get a screw into one of those holes in the bracket, you can get that shade into the opening. If this doesn’t work for you let me know because there are other options.

    Cordless cellular shade bracket

    Cordless cellular shade in shallow opening

  220. Emma says:

    Hi I have a living room window that I would like to dress with a roman blind and curtains (curtains will be for show, not use) in complementary fabrics. The room is quite dark so to maximise light I wanted to hang the roman blind outside the window recess quite high up on the wall so it doesn’t block out too much light when open. The curtains would also be outside the window recess and stacjked back against the wall to maximise light. I wondered if it would look ok having the both outside the recess and if having curtains would make opening and closing the roman blind difficult? Your opinion would be a real help. Thanks

  221. Robert says:

    HI Emma

    I think you have the right idea of mounting the Romans high up for the stack. I would check with the company you plan on buying from and ask what the stack thickness is so you know about how high to actually mount them. So if your window opening height is 70 inches and the stack is 12 inches, then you would order the shade at 82 inches and mount it 12 inches above the opening. Also make sure you make the width so the Roman overlaps the trim by about 1 inch on each side. As far as the draper panels the important thing is the brackets. The brackets have to have enought projection to clear the Romans. Many brackets are adjustable. The Roman wouldn’t look too much different then if they were inside with no trim so I think the look would be fine. Here’s a picture of side panels with wood blinds just to give you an idea of what it might look like.


    drapery panels with wood blinds

  222. Eileen says:

    Hi Robert,
    My windows are 21 inches wide ( inside measurement) and deep enough to accommodate inside mounted blinds. In your opinion would this look ok or ridiculous based on the size of the window?


  223. Robert says:

    Hi Ellen

    I think they would look fine. 21 inches isn’t that narrow. Here’s a picture of an inside mount Roman shade that’s about 20 inches wide.


    Inside Mount Roman Shade

  224. Eileen says:

    Thank you!

  225. Donna says:

    What is your opinion of inside mounting a Luminette shade? There is plenty of room inside the opening for mounting, and although Hunter Douglas gives all the requirements and instructions for inside installation, their price guide also says they don’t recommend it. Do you feel there will be too much of a light gap when they are tilted? Do you have any pictures of this application? Thank you.

  226. Robert says:

    Hi Donna

    As long as you have plenty of depth, there is no problem doing an inside mount. There isn’t much of a light gap along the sides. But this isn’t the treatment to use if you want room darkening. It just so happens I do have a picture of an inside mount Luminette. This is on a sliding glass door. if you notice along the right side the material is hung up on the door handle. Didn’t catch it until after I took the pic. There is only about 2 inches of depth so the treatment isn’t fully recessed.


  227. Jana says:

    I’d like to know, what are the smallest possible wood or faux wood blinds (the ladders I mean) that exist for me to buy? Like wise, what are the smallest possible vinyl blinds available?

    Is there such a thing as a half inch blind?

    What is the shallowest possible head rail made or available?


  228. Robert says:

    Hi Jana

    The smallest slat for a wood or vinyl blind is 1 inch. The headrail is about 1-1/2 inch.
    You can see the blind here…..1 inch wood blinds

    There is a such thing as a 1/2 inch slat. It is available in aluminium only and is called a micro mini blind. The headrail is also about 1-1/2.
    You can see it here….1/2 inch micro mini blinds


  229. Diane says:

    I don’t like the look of white backed shades from the outside front of my house. Have you ever seen shades that were backed in a darker gray or blue so it is less visible from the outside?

  230. Robert says:

    Hi Diane

    Only ones I’m aware of are roller shades, un-lined Roman shades and woven woods.

  231. Sarah says:

    Hi there!

    I am having major problems installing a set of interior mount roman shades. Sounds easy enough right? I’ve done this before with ease but in this room I have already broken two drill bits and and not able to get the bit to go up into the wood enough to pre-drill the holes for the screw to go into. It is like I am hitting something that is preventing me from going further. This is a very old house so not sure what it is or could be. I am at a loss and not sure what to do. I am pregnant, nesting feverishly, and desperate to get these blinds up. Any help is appreciated 🙂

  232. Robert says:

    HI Sarah

    Is it a wood headrail? If it is wood, maybe your hitting a knot in the wood or a dull bit. Did you try drilling a new hole an inch over.


  233. Sarah says:

    It is a wood headrail.. Yes, many many many holes ha!! Finally found a spot that worked when pulling the brackets forward, not to either side. Thankfully I had some wiggle room on where brackets could be located. Thanks for your time and the help!!!

  234. Heidi says:

    Hi Robert, I’m interested in replacing all my blinds in the bedrooms with cordless cellular shades but having a hard time finding a brand that has a bracket that will fit. My window depth is less than an inch, maybe around half an inch or so. You posted a picture (March 3, 2013 at 5:01 pm) of a bracket for a 3/4 inch depth frame, can you give me the details on that?

    Thanks so much for your help!

  235. Robert says:

    Hi Heidi

    That is a bracket for a room darkening cordless cellular shade.If you have 3/4 depth, you’ll have plenty of room to fit that bracket. The name of the company is comfortex and here’s a link >>>>> Comfortex Cellular Shades.

    Good Luck

  236. Tammy says:

    Hello I was wondering how much of a window does a roller shade block when completely rolled up? And do you have any suggestions as to what types of blinds to install on a bank of windows that views west to the ocean. Most of the time you want the view unless trying to watch television in the bright sun. Currently we have woven wood blinds and a good 9 inches of the window is covered when the kinds are fully raised.

  237. Robert says:

    Hi Tammy

    A roller shade will take up a couple of inches. You might want to look into a sunscreen roller shade. Blocks out the suns glare but still maintain a view. I have some pictures on my pinterest page.Cellular shades will also take up only a couple of inches. Either one will be a big difference from woven woods. Good luck


  238. Sandy says:

    I have 36″ X 69″ and 38″ x 73″ windows in my son’s room. I’m in need of cordless shades (preferably cellular or roller type) due to small children. Because of the height of the windows, cordless shades would not allow me to fully lift the shade to the top of the window when not in use. Remote control shades are too expensive for a child’s room. Are there any other options that would give me the safety I desire for my children; yet, still allow me to fully raise the shade during the day?

  239. Robert says:

    HI Sandy

    Most companies that sell cellular shades offer a “Continuous Loop Lift Cord” as a control option as seen here.

    continuous loop lift cord

    Another option is a “Ultra glide retractable cord system” it is only available by Hunter Douglas. You can take a look at it here……Ultra Glide

    Lastly is a standard cord control. All cords on cellular shades will come with a breakaway cord to prevent injury. As seen below

    breakaway cord

  240. Gaty says:

    Hi Robert I have an old house and the windows have been replaced with vinyl windows. I want to install mini blinds and would would rather install them inside rather than out side.Just like the look better. The problem seems to be with the molding they installed around the window. Can brackets be fastened to the vinyl frame of the window or do you know of a better way?

  241. Robert says:

    Hi Gaty

    That’s always a problem with replacement windows. They add some molding that reduces the depth of your opening. You might have enough room to do a inside mount still. Measure your depth, you only need about 3/4 of a inch. Take a look at the comment from March 3rd. The opening in the picture had replacement windows. It has 3/4 inch of depth. Let me know, I can steer you in the direction of a blind that will work.


  242. Tom says:


    I have an office in the house with 4 trapezoid windows. 2 are very large and 2 are smaller. I’m having a difficult time finding window coverings that are reasonably priced that would allow for full view out the windows when need be. I can’t just put a curtain across nor can I put shudder style blinds because the angle of the window follows the roof line with is vaulted at a very steep angle. I’ve been trying to find cellular blinds that will pull all the way up into the angle but the latest quote I got from a company in Denver was near $4000! that is 4k for 4 windows. Incredible. Any advice would be appreciated.

  243. Robert says:

    Hi Tom

    Your options are much more limited for trapezoid windows. I know hunter Douglas makes a shade that you can raise up to where the angle starts but the triangler portion of the window will always be covered. A more economical way would be to do vertical blinds. The limitation would be the angle has to be greater than 45 degrees. You will be able to rotate them and let light in but you cannot draw them.

    Good Luck

  244. Tracy says:

    Hi there,

    We just had a Hunter Douglas vertiglide (blackout applause) installed as an inside mount across a set of sliding glass patio doors in our bedroom. I am noticing there is approximately a half inch gap of light running down both sides of of the shade when closed. I assumed the blind would fit tight to the frame. Is this normal?

    Thank you!


  245. Robert says:

    Hi Tracy

    There will be about a 1/4 inch gap along each side but 1/2 inch is a bit much. Does the headrail fit tightly into your opening or is there a little wiggle room. Should be only 1/16 wiggle on each side. Who measured?


  246. Sarah says:

    Hi Robert

    I have read though some of the posts up top, we just bought a house and have maybe 1″ depth for window treatments. I know our options are limited. I cant stand outside mount, especially with the pretty moulding that we have around the windows. What are our most affordable options? We’re talking about 17 windows ranging from 32″ wide to about 78″ wide.

    Thank you!

  247. Robert says:

    Hi Sarah

    You have many options but most affordable are going to be faux wood blinds and cellular shades. Many people mix it up using cellular shades in the bedrooms for better energy and light control. Faux woods every where else. If you use Faux woods just be sure to get the valance right. Read this article to see what I mean. Let me know if you have any more questions.


  248. Pam says:

    I have floor length vertical blinds with fabric vanes. The vertical blinds will pull open when I pull the cord but the cord becomes very slack in the carrier and the blinds will not close when I pull the cord in the opposite direction to close them. How can I fix this problem.

  249. Robert says:

    Hi Pam

    Do you know what brand they are and how old are they?


  250. Pam says:

    I don’t know what brand they are. But I did take them down and found that the problem with the pulley system. It was missing a pin (I think). I made something up to improvise and now it operates fine…just a little tight traversing. Thanks anyway.

  251. Shay says:

    I have two sliding glass doors with vertical cellular shades on both. On one, the shade won’t stay closed, like the magnet is not engaging. Is there an inexpensive fix?

  252. Robert says:

    Hi Shay

    First check to make sure the magnet is still there? If it is, does it feel loose. It’s possible that the plastic housing that holds the magnet in place broke which will cause it to not engage. You can check with the mfg. to get a new housing. How is the tension, does it seem hard to go back and forth or does it want to spring back when your trying to close it? If there is too much tension it will cause the magnet to disengage. You can decrease the tension easy but I would need to know what brand you have.


  253. Shay says:

    I think Pam is answering my question in error. I can send you photos if that helps. We just bought the home so I don’t know the manufacturer.

  254. Robert says:

    A photo would be good.

  255. Shay says:

    How do I send a photo through this site? Can I email you directly?

  256. Robert says:

    Yes, send it as an attachment to

  257. Gary says:

    I’m buying a house that is full of levelor blinds for both windows and doors. These are celluar, cordless type shades that raise and lower simply by pulling or pushing on the bottom element. They are shaded red on the interior of the blind and white on the reverse side that faces outward. What I’m wondering is whether there is a simple way to reverse the blind, so that the red side faces out, and the white side faces in?

  258. Robert says:

    Hi Gary

    The shade can be installed in one direction only, so you cannot reverse it.


  259. Diane says:

    We were told by the company we are considering purchasing cellular pleated shades from that if we were not going to be regularly opening and closing the blinds to go with pull cords instead of cordless. The reason given is that the cordless will stop working without regular use. I like the look of the cordless, but will only be in the home six months out of the year. Have you found this to be the case? Thank you.

  260. Robert says:

    Nope….never heard of that and never ran into a case of that being true.

  261. Vera says:

    Hi I am trying to order 2 Hunter Douglas cordless blinds about 35″ wide each blind for a sliding door – I want to butt the headrails together to look like one – the lady I ordered from says I can’t have the headrails touching they have to be 1/8″ apart. Also she says there will probably be a 3/4″ gap between the blinds fabric on the 2 blinds. The beige vinyl slider I am hanging them on is darker than the blinds & so I really don’t want a 3/4″ gap between the two blinds on the slider either. I have seen many blinds butted together & do not feel this should have to be the way she describes. I could’ve gotten a 2 on one headrail but it is only offered in the Ultraglide which has a wand control & they put big unsightly warning stickers across the bottom of the bottom rails so you are forced to see them when the shades are up – apparently the stickers are really hard to get off. (I am all for child safety but small kids can’t read the stickers & I don’t believe that it would prevent deaths to mar the look of the blinds with them. I know a child who strangled in a blind cord – a sticker would NOT have prevented it.) Anyway I feel I am stuck with cordless & no 2 on 1 headrail.

    What do you think?

  262. carolyn says:

    I just had my windows replaced and now the brackets for my 2.5 inch wood blinds no longer fit inside the window frame. The new windows take up more of the inside frame and there is very little room to mount the brackets. unfortunately, they were cut to fit inside the frame, so I can’t mount them outside. Is there a way I can get or make a thinner bracket to hold them when I only have about 1/2 inch of frame to use?

  263. Robert says:

    Hi Carolyn
    It’s very common to lose your depth after replacement windows are installed. I would hold the bracket up in the corner of the window opening
    and see if any holes in the bracket are set back far enough to get a screw into the drywall. Hopefully that will work. Good Luck

  264. Robert says:

    Hi Vera
    You can butt them together the bottom rails will just be very close together , just make sure they are level when installed. I think they all have those stickers on them.

  265. Jane says:

    I just had 2.5 inch wood blinds put up over my French doors in the master BR. When they are closed there is open space on the sides where you can still see in. I didn’t anticipate this and don’t see how that can change. Not good at night when I want to read in my bed. I can see the neighbor’s window group the side so I know they would be able to see me. I didn’t want to hang drapes :(. Any ideas?

  266. Pauline says:

    My husband has measured our ready made vertical blinds wrong they are 9cm to long, what is the best way to shorten them. I wondered if super glue or wonder web would be any good.

  267. Robert says:

    Hi Jane, There is a product that will close that gap it’s call sleepy time tracks. Here’s a link for more info……


  268. Robert says:

    Hi Pauline, Are they cloth or vinyl? Are the mounted inside or outside the frame. If outside can you mount them higher up o the wall?
    Vinyl can easily be shorten buy if they’re are cloth you can try to cut and glue but never tried that not sure if it would work.


  269. Helen says:

    Hi Robert, I have mini blinds in my bedroom windows but would like them motorized but they only come in a 2 inch which will protrude from the inside mount. Is that acceptable and does it look nice? Helen

  270. Robert says:

    Perfectly acceptable and done all (most) of the time.

  271. Arlene Olson says:

    I bought Mainstays cordless mini blinds from Walmart. No directions came with except for a very brief short one on the side of the box. In the package was what look like a bracket. Clear plastic with holes for small screws. The actual brackets were nice metal ones that don;t need measuring since the blind just clips on. Anyway, what the heck are those clear plastic things for? Thank you.

  272. Robert says:

    I think what you might be referring to are the hold down brackets. They are use to mount the bottom rail to stop it from swinging , typically used when installing on doors. They are usually triangular in shape.

  273. Peter Manley says:

    We have (3) HunterDouglas 1.0 motored powerglide blinds circa 2003 and one has a failed motor. I am told, by many, that there are no replacements available and also there are no kits to convert to a different configuration engineered. I’m flabbergasted and looking at $2000+ to replace all three even though the fabric and housing are in perfect shape. Any ideas?? Thank you, Peter Manley

  274. Robert says:

    Hi Peter, I would contact this company motorizedwindowtreatments they may be able to help.

  275. Michael Armstrong says:

    I have a bunch of older Hunter-Douglas Duette blinds that I would like to convert to top-down, bottom-up. It doesn’t look too hard conceptually, but are there any devils in the details, and are parts available?

  276. Neil says:

    Hi Bob,
    Is it possible to retrofit an existing HD luminette installation with motorization? Preferably with Somfy RTS motors that can be controlled with a home automation system via a ZRTSI module. If that type of conversion isn’t possible, perhaps to HD powerglide? Where could I source the parts to do either of these?

    Thanks in advance,

  277. Robert says:

    I would contact a Hunter Douglas dealer.

  278. Robert says:

    Hi Neil, I would contact this company motorizedwindowtreatments

  279. Cy Anderson says:

    Hi, I have to fix/replace the tilter mechanism on 2 in faux wood blinds bought approx 4 yrs ago and I am not located near the property which is rented. Would you happen to know the size and shape of the rod in a 72 in wide blind the cheaper of two available at home depot. I am thinking it would be
    1/4 in square. I need to order part online and then take with me so I only need one trip to do the job.
    The tenant would not be able to remove the blind to see this. A longshot but thank you for your time in advance.

  280. Robert says:

    Hi Cy, there are so many types of tilt mechanism. I wouldn’t know which one you need.

  281. Robert says:

    I want to inside mount nice match stick blinds but I only have 1/2 inch. I’m told I need at least 3/4 inch. Any adaptions/ tricks so I could inside mount?
    Looking at hunter Douglass up and down.

  282. Robert says:

    Woven wood shades are sometimes referred to as match stick blinds. If the shades headrail is made of wood you may beable to drive a screw through the wood and into the inside
    opening of your window. If it must be attached by a bracket then your at the mercy of the min. depth requirements which in this case is 3/4 inch.

  283. Anthony says:

    Hello, I have a bedroom window that is 70″ W x 58″ H. It’s two windows, and only one of them can slide horizontally. I’m looking to get faux wood and from what I’m seeing, 72″ width for faux wood is a common maximum length. Would you recommend buying one large blind, or two separate blinds with one head piece? My concern is that 70″ will be heavy and difficult to pull up.

  284. Robert says:

    Hi Anthony, it will be heavy and hard to pull up, it will also probably bow. It you need one blind I would go with real wood it’s much lighter.
    Two faux woods would make it easier to operate but don’t do two on one headrail. Do two separate blinds with a common valance going across both.
    2 on 1 is gonna be harder to install, more chance of damage during shipping and if there is a problem with one then they both have to go back.

  285. Douglas says:

    Hi Bob I have 10 windows at a lake house 8 are 58 1/2 x 58 1/2 2 are angled 58 1/2 on right side 58 1/2 on bottom 28 1/2 on left side not sure how long the top is. My question is I would like to use cellular blinds but operational cellular blinds for angled windows are very expensive. I was thinking about using cellular blinds on the square windows and vertical blinds on the angle windows all the same color. the angle windows and 2 square windows are on an upper level 4 on the bottom all on the same wall facing the lake what do you think or any sugestions.

  286. Robert says:

    HI Douglas, wouldn’t mix it up like that. Don’t think it would look good. A vertical mount very differently then a cellular shades plus depth requirements are different. Angle verticals are expensive if you can find them and should only be professionally installed. When all is said and done your cost might be about the same as all cellular.

  287. Michele says:

    Hi Bob,

    We just replaced 23 windows in our home. The top frame now only has 1/2 room. We went to a blind place to see what we could do since our other blind brackets do not fit. Unfortunately they are suggesting the same thing. UGH. Is there a way to attach cellular blinds from the side and on the inside? Like the boxes on the edge plastic blinds use? Our moldings are ornate and thick so outside is not an option.

    Blinded by the Sun

  288. Brian says:

    Hi Bob,

    Am I playing with fire here, or is this common?


  289. Robert says:

    A half inch should be enough to get an inside mount cellular shade in. It depends on the mfg. I would check around an ask whet there minimum depth requirement is.
    I know Hunter Douglas and comfortex cellular would fit.

  290. Robert says:

    Your playing with fire. But not impossible. If you drill a couple of holes in the bracket, use at least 1-1/2 self tapping pan head screws then it will work.

  291. HI! we are replacing Faux wooden blinds with Levolor Woven Wood Shades. We have 3 bay windows. 2 on the outer end is smaller width (23 x 72 inside mount) than the middle. We are having a few issues. When trying to get them cut to the size needed at Lowes, They state the on the box it says you can not go any shorter width than 24”. Please tell m ethere is a way we can cut whats needed so we do not have to pay $300+ on 2 blinds…….

  292. Robert says:

    All manufactures have their own limitations. If you want them narrower you have to find a different company to buy from.
    try, or

  293. Romek says:

    Dear Bob:
    I have Luminette shades and I would like to reverse the stack (to have opening on the right side instead of left, in order to open patio door). On October 10, 2010, you said it is possible. Could you give me some starting point how to do it? Any place I could find instructions?

  294. Robert says:

    Hi Romek, There has been too many problems trying to reverse the draw and no longer recommend it.

  295. Isabella says:

    Hi Bob
    I just bought a house and we have to buy window treatments for 25 windows. I am going to go with the faux wood blinds as they are most affordable. My windows are all different sizes. I will have to customize some but I am wondering if I can get away with some of the Pre-cut blinds. They are about 75 dollars cheaper. Some of my windows measure 55 inches in length. Can I order blinds that are cut to 64 inches in height? Can I make this work or is it a huge mistake? Thanks so much for your insight.

  296. Robert says:

    Hi Isabella, there are places you can purchase custom sizes for the price of those pre cut blinds and get the correct length. If you have a 55 inch long opening and try to fit a 64 long blind, that’s a lot of excess not only will it be hard to operate the tilt but if you try to trim off the excess (which they will tell you can) it’s a pain for a pro let along for someone who hasn’t done it before. Message me with the area your located and we’ll see what’s available.

  297. Judi says:

    Hello- I have an old Queen Anne Victorian with the original window frames on 9 windows in the front of the house approx 30″ W X 60″ L. I’d like to add inside mount double cellular shades to these windows, as I have in the back of the house with newer windows & frames, both for privacy (top down/bottom up shades) and heat retention. Can I assume that the top of older window frames can bear the weight of the shades? Or how would I check?


  298. Robert says:

    Hi Judi, Are the frames wood? Weight won’t be an issue but you can use longer screws ( 1-1/4 to 1-1/2) to insure a stronger hold. Cellular shades are very light.

  299. Claudia says:

    Hi! i bought all brand new Levolor blinds for my house. I just found out that my husband is building a shed right outside my bedroom window (our room is on the first floor). I’m very upset that this will be my view. I put cellular shades with room darkening in my room. Is there any way that I can now install the top up bottom down feature to my existing blinds?? Or will I have to buy all new blinds for those two windows? Thank you So much for taking the time to help me with this matter!!

  300. Robert says:

    Hi Claudia, unfortunately you cannot convert to a top down bottom up.

  301. Mark says:

    Hi, quick question about mounting options/measurements. I don’t like the look of outside mount blinds however I only have about 3/4″ or so of depth on double hung windows. I like the look of the mock inside mount (outside mount on trim with trim showing) much better since I don’t have the depth needed for 2″ faux wood blinds.
    How would I measure this to make them look normal? I have a simple colonial style molding and stool on the windows. Also, do I need to take into account extra width/height for the valence? Thanks a lot.

  302. Robert says:

    Hi Mark, I would add an overall of 2 inches to the width and height. This would be ordered as an outside so on the valance just request 2-3/4 returns. But just so you know 3/4 depth is usually enough for an inside mount. Check with the company ordering from what the min. depth required is.

  303. Mike M says:


    Save me please! Purchased 3 sets of top down bottom up Allen & Roth bamboo shades. I bought 3 single shades instead of one long one for my picture window, which is a single frame install type with 3 windows in it. Wood around outside edges and plastic inners between the 3 windows. Still with me? I didnt want the bulk one big shade. Anyway, they came with pre-dilled ‘L’ brackets with a center screw assembled to it that attaches with a wing nut. They also provided screws which look like wood screws. The dilemma is, how doI attach the brackets to both the outside wood and inner plastic, or do I? You’re assistanceis much appreciated. Thanx!

  304. Jeanette Turnbull says:

    Hi. I have tried several methods of solving my issue but now I turn to you! I have a glass and metal free standing conservatory. In the summer the doors must be open but I cannot keep out the birds and the butterflies. I have tried screen cloth with magnets; the wind blows it open or completely off. Magnets too weak! I tried stronger magnets — no better. I think I need a top pressure mounted (can’t drill into the metal) roller shade made of screening that can go up and down and somehow be secured against the wind at the bottom.

    There are four double doors; 42 7/8 inches wide and 78 inches tall. The only surface available to mount anything is the door jamb at 3/4″ around the top and sides of the doors. I hope you have an idea…

  305. Robert says:

    Hi Jeanette, You need something at the top to mount to. A 3/4 inch jam should be ok. Look for an exterior sun screen shade with hold downs. You will still have gaps along each side of about 1/2 inch.

  306. Debbie says:

    We just got new replacement windows. We were never warned about how our inside mount cellular shades would no longer fit. We almost have enough room but not quite there. We bought the JcPenney cordless cellular shades and loved the look. I do not want to cover the wood trim or mount into the wood trim. A lady suggested we nail a piece of wood to the wood frame where we would need the cellular shades to mount and then mount the shades onto that wood piece. Would that work or should we be looking at another alternative? Thank you!

  307. Robert says:

    How much debth do you have? Many shades all you need is a 1/2 inch. Would need more info to help. You could mount a piece of wood in there but not sure how well it would hold and look.

  308. Jamie says:

    I have a set of double windows(vinyl) that are 61.5 in wide with a transom above. I have ordered a set of inside mount blinds for the windows. I don’t want to cover the transom, but that leaves me no window casing to mount my center support. Any suggestions on how to get around this?

  309. Ricky says:

    How do I install support brackets on a 108″ wide faux wood blind on triple window with a transom at the top. It is a metal clad window. The end caps are simple, I can install those in the side jam. There is no trim below the transom, I am terrible at explaining, I hope understand what I am trying to ask. I do not understand how to attach pictures here either. Thanks in advance.

  310. Robert says:

    You can install a palladium shelf first then mount the blinds to the shelf.
    palladium shelf

  311. Robert says:

    Hi Rick, Like you said the side brackets are no problem it’s the center supports that are the issue. With a blind that wide you want to make sure you get two or three center supports. I would suggest the same thing I recommended for the previous reader Jamie, a palladium shelf. I would suggest to do a search on how to install. I have installed many with great results. Here’s a picture…..

  312. Denise says:

    Hi. I bought a honeycomb cordless shade from Sears in 2013. I’m not sure of the brand but I have the instructions. One of the handles used to pull the shade up and down broke and I need a replacement but dont know where to get one. If I send a photo of the handle and instructions, could you please tell me where I can get a replacement handle? I’m not sure how to attach a photo to this question….

    Thank you

  313. Rose says:

    Would a palladian shelf work on a patio door with a transom above it? I want to install vertical blinds (outside mount). Would the shelf be durable enough to withstand everyday opening and closing of vertical blinds? Also, what material would you recommend for the shelf (wood or steel)?

  314. Robert says:

    Installed many with wood.

  315. anna says:

    We had our windows replaced, all vinyl now. Our old blinds do not fit as they were inside mounted before. My only choice is to get new blinds and outside mount them.

    We have 3 windows side-by-side in the living room with an arch above the middle window. For the windows on the side, we can mount on the trim or above. For the middle window, there is a small trim above. Do you think it’s ok to mount blinds from there?

    Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    I did email you a few pictures so you have a visual. Subject: outside mount blinds


  316. Robert says:

    Yes you have plenty of room. I would suggest hiring a professional window treatment installer to measure.

  317. Susan Trevelyan says:

    Should inside mounted silouette blinds be long enough to sit on the window sill when pulled down. If not sitting on the window sill, how high above it should they be when fully pulled down?

  318. Robert says:

    Hi Susan, I think they should just touch the sill when tilted open.

  319. Marsha says:

    I installed 3″ wood blinds and they all close nice and tight at the top, but the bottom half does not. Is this normal?

  320. Robert says:

    Yes very normal. The width at the bottom is greater then at the top.

  321. Linda Dagosta says:

    I have two front arched Windows one is 104 inches in length and 61 Center Point 2 sides measure 47 inches. that’s the the major concern, I have 4 standard vertical blinds that will fit these windows. there a way to modify them to work with the arched window. I was thinking on angle mounting possibly and then having the small point of the window slightly exposed as it will oy be less than an inch.. does anything need to be done to the header? I considered arching them but most people say it is impossible without proper equipment. Welcome suggestions and input. Thank you

  322. Robert says:

    Hi Linda, an arch has two measurements the width across at the bottom and the height at the center. Sounds like you might be describing and arch with an window below. You cannot bend the headrail of a vertical blind or hang it on an angle unless it was specifically made to hang on an angle. If you want to re-use the verticals, only thing you can do is hang them over the arch as a standard vertical.

  323. BJ Moersen says:

    You are my last hope. We have custom 3.5″ verticals in all our double and triple wide windows using inside mount. Our windows were replaced and now we have only 1.75″ depth at top of window opening and 1.5″ clearance from the wall to the window pull. We looked for some sort of hardware to move the vertical brackets out so we can open the blinds, but no luck. We really don’t want to have to drill into the window itself. The head rail is 1.75″ deep. Surely there are many people in this predicament. Thank you for any help you can provide.

  324. Robert says:

    It can be done but you will need flat extension brackets. You would mount the IM VB clips onto the extension brkts with a small screw and nut. The bracket would mount up in the IM opening. You might want to contact a local window treatment installer for help.

  325. BJ Moersen says:

    Thank you sir! I had looked into doing it that way but was leary of the stability of the bracket since it will have less than 2 inches of space to mount. Hopefully, there’s wood above the window and it will be strong enough to hold the blinds, which are pretty heavy. Appreciate your help.

  326. Sammy says:

    Hi bob hope all is well by you. This is such a great informative website. Thank you for taking the time to answer everyone’s questions. I had someone put up 2 inch faux wood blinds in two of my rooms. The top of the shades close very tight but the bottom part of the shade seems in both rooms aren’t closed as tight and let some outside light in. It’s defiantly recognizeable while in bed that the slots aren’t closed as tight as they should be. What is the problem and solution to this?

  327. Robert says:

    This is the nature of faux wood blinds. They pull tight at the top because that is close to the tilting mechanism. Not so tight toward the bottom of blind because it’s further away.

  328. David says:

    Hi – I’m looking to put sheer shades in a window that is 87.5 X 70. The depth is 1.75 but the manufacturer requires a depth of 2 inches. Will it make a difference? I can get shades that go in a smaller depth but they’re double the price! And if it will work, will it look bad? The shades are an imitation of the Hunter Douglas Silhouette.


  329. Robert says:

    HI David, I think the shades will look fine but the problem is with the bracket. If their saying 2 inches it’s because the holes in the bracket require 2 inches in order to drive the screws into the window opening. Try comfortex Shangri-la with the low profile bracket.

  330. Don says:

    Hi, looking to purchase 4 cordless cellular shades for our newly finished basement and just want the best shades for the money. I’m excluding Hunter Douglas b/c of cost. Any preferences among the other big guys – Bali, Levolor, Graber, Comfortex or one of the online site brands? thanks!

  331. Robert says:

    I like comfortex, you can find them at

  332. Jaysohn says:

    We already have 2 inch white wood blinds mounted inside the window opening. Can we ADD a blackout roller shade OVER the existing blinds? Does this require an extension bracket? Should the roller shade be made an inch or two wider than the opening to completely cover the window openings on the wall?

  333. Robert says:

    You can add roller shades and 2 inches on each side would be better.

  334. Jeff says:

    Hi Robert,
    I recently purchased a home and need some advice on installing blinds in some of the rooms. In our previous home, we did the 2″ faux wood blinds throughout. All of the windows were pretty standard so it was pretty simple. In the new home, we have several windows which are arched. The problem here being, there is no window frame/header across the bottom half of the window where the blinds would go, so that immediately rules out any blinds require a tope of frame mount bracket. I know that some actually have a little bracket that mounts to the sides of the frame instead, and I think that would probably be fine for this scenario. However, the windows are 72″ wide, so I’m worried that the middle will sag, or the blinds might come down when trying to raise them, since there isn’t a way to install a center support bracket.
    The full dimensions of the windows are 72″w x 60″h (for the bottom rectangular section). The arched section at the top is 72″w x 36″h.

    I read some things online about installing a floating header. But that doesn’t seem any different than just installing blinds that have the two end mounts, since the floating header also wouldn’t have any support in the center.

    If you have any ideas on how I might be able to install some blinds, I would greatly appreciate it. If needed, I can upload some photos to give you a better idea of the windows.

  335. Pam in Ottawa says:

    Hi there – have an option to buy discounted Lauren Taylor London Sheer blinds but I’d be on the hook to try cut and fit our windows. In three cases, the inside width of my window is ONE inch wider than the sizes of the blinds advertised. Am I ok to get the 33″ blind for a window that is 34″ across? Please say yes, it shouldn’t be an issue… will save a lot of headache having to cut all these things! Thanks so much.

  336. Robert says:

    HI jeff, that’s a pretty common problem that is easily handled. Look into a product called a “palladian shelf”.

  337. Robert says:

    HI Pam, it would be fine if you don’t mind a 1/2 gap along both sides.

  338. Marie Smith says:

    We have an older home with all original windows. My question is how do I hang blinds in this window? I would like to do white faux wood blinds, but I’m not sure how to hang them due to the metal part on the side of the window. I don’t like outside mount blinds. Is there another option besides outside mount? (hopefully you can see the photo – I was having trouble posting it)

  339. I want to attach a blind to an aluminum window and frame. Are there fittings for this purpose? Thank youl

  340. Robert says:

    Hi Marie, you don’t have enough depth to mount inside. The nest best thing is to do a mock inside mount. Where the bracket is mounted on the face of the trim but most of the trim is exposed. Here’s a few pictures to give you the idea.

    mock inside mount
    Mock inside mount
    Mock inside mount

  341. Robert says:

    No, just use self tapping screws.

  342. Kitty O'Brien says:

    I need to buy white faux wood valances, not crown but the kind that lay flat on the header. Any advice on where I can purchase them?
    Thank you.

  343. Robert says:

    Hi kitty, the valances come with the blinds and are not usually not sold separately but I would contact some online retailers like or they might beable to help you.

  344. Robert Middendorf says:

    i just put up roth + allen blinds mounted outside i had to shorten
    now i can not pull all the way down i only shortened the ladder strings
    and not the small strings that are used for up and down
    is their any way to fix this

  345. Robert says:

    What type of treatment is it, Roman shades, cellular, wood blind or roller shade?

  346. Ed says:

    I’ve been looking for a half-inch aluminum micro miniblind with a very small headrail. Levolor, through Lowes, assured both me and the salesperson that their blind had a headrail that was 3/4-inch in height and 13/16-inch in depth, and this was perfect for the very tight spot I have, and one which requires box brackets. So, I ordered the blind.
    It arrived with a 1 by 1-1/2 inch rail. We called back Levolor and were told it was a mistake and they would send out a correctly manufactured replacement. It just arrived. Same larger headrail. We called back Levolor and were now informed that not only do they not make a miniblind with a headrail that size but that they haven’t done so in TEN YEARS! They’ve just overlooked updating the info they give their customer-service reps.
    So, my question: Is there anywhere, any manufacturer, any store that sells a half-inch aluminum micro miniblind with that sort of sleek headrail and appropriate brackets, in the rather compact size of 32 inches wide and 24 inches long?
    Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

  347. Robert says:

    Hi Ed, smallest headrail I find is 1 x 1. Take a look at and click on “Embassy 1/2″ Micro Blinds”

  348. Terry M says:

    purchased a 1960’s farmhouse home with very nice wood casing trim on all the windows. The plan was to install inside mount bamboo matchstick type blinds however there is 1 and 1/8 inch quarter round molding trim on all the (many) windows along the inside top and sides. The blinds I ordered said they required 1.25″ depth (they actually needed 1 1/2″ when I got them). I knew that they may not work when I ordered, but thought I could figure out a way to make them work anyway, and of course could not. I prefer to not have outside mount blinds on the woodwork. Any suggestions where I might find bamboo blinds that would work on these windows, and if not, what WILL work for inside mounts on quarter rounds that would be in keeping with a farmhouse style? I would like to avoid cellular/metal/aluminum if possible. Quite a dilemma here and don’t know what to do. thanks for any advice.

  349. Robert says:

    Hi Terry, can you answer this question, is the top (headrail) of the blind make out of wood?

  350. Patty S says:

    Hi Bob,

    I recently ordered 7 Comfortex cellular shades for an inside mount. Shame on me – I didn’t measure the depth of all of the window casings and three of the window casing depths are too shallow for the required mounting hardware (only one of two screws will make contact with the drywall casing) that either need to screw up into the drywall casing or to the back. The shades will not be long enough or wide enough for me to install as an outside mount. Is there an adhesive or other product I could use in combination with the single screw on each bracket that will support the weight of the shade (and daily operation – they are click-lock shades)? Or can I consider screwing the bracket towards the back into the vinyl window trim? Or is there another alternative I am not thinking of?

    I look forward to your thoughts!

  351. Sol says:

    Thank you so much for so answering so many questions!

    We just had Levolor top-down bottom-up corded cellular blinds installed (inside mount). They look lovely, but as soon as we tried pulling them up and down the left side of the bracket (the side that has the bottom-up string) popped out in about half of them.

    The installation person mentioned we should just push them back in and that it was the way Levolor was. We’ve been extremely careful with the blinds after that (reducing the angle we’re pulling from, lifting the bottom bar with our hands first, going very slowly) but we still had a couple more left sides pop out. Does it sound like an installation problem or do we really need to tend to the blinds like they’re tender newborn babies?

  352. Robert says:

    Hi Sol, is the a little screw in the bracket?

  353. Robert says:

    HI Patty, the lift lock shade bracket has a hole at the back of the shade that allows you to mount in a 1/2 inch depth. Can you post a picture of the bracket you have.

  354. pam rice says:

    how to get vinyl vertical blinds to close tighter, so people can’t see inside of the house?

  355. Robert says:

    Vinyl vertical blinds close tight along the top but not at mid and lower. Best thing to do is switch to different treatment or install a shade behind it if you have the room.

  356. Duane says:

    We have 3 large windows that we’d like to cover with a vertical blind.
    The distance of the 3 windows is 148 inches from casing to casing.
    We have 22.5 inches of wall space on the left side and there is only 9.25 inches of wall space on the right side, as there is a door adjacent to the right window.

    We would like as much of the window to be free of blinds when they are retracted.
    Is it possible to have a split retraction that is not equal? That is, can we have the left blind (with more wall storage space) to cover two windows – about 100 inches and the right blind (with limited wall storage space) to cover the remaining window? It would seem we’d just need two one-way draw packages, but to mount them under one valance. Is this possible? I realize it would then have two separate controls with one on each side. We are OK with that. Thanks.

  357. Robert says:

    Hi Duane, you can do two one way VB’s and butt them together and ask the mfg. for a common valance to cover both. But you will have to deal with the center when they come together they will be a gap.

  358. Chelsey Prescott says:

    My windows are all odd sizes so I’m not sure how to order blinds for an inside mount. My bedroom windows are exactly 34 3/4 inches. The blinds I want are bamboo roman shades and they come in 34″ wide or 35″ wide. Should I go with the 34 and have a small gap on both sizes or go up and cut them? Also for another window, it measures 47″ wide but the options are either 46″ or 48″ wide. I don’t want to have to pay extra for custom blinds but I will if I really have to.

  359. Robert says:

    Hi Chelsey, the 34 should fit into the 34-3/4 opening with a 3/8 gap on each side which is not bad. You would have to go with the 46 for the other window, 1/2 gap along each side is starting to get big but still acceptable for a bamboo shade.

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